How should I treat this Fujita Belt saddle?
 

Picked this up for cheap and gonna give it a shot on the Miyata. For those used to leather saddles and conditioning, whats this one look like it could use (other than probably twice the amount of miles of a brooks to break in, from what I’ve heard :lol:)?


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e5c14fdfc.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f68726e85.jpeg

Treat it like you would a Brooks B17 with Brooks Proofhide. Roger

^^^^^^

I just ordered some proofide. I guess my question for those more accustomed to worn in leather saddles is does anything stand out on this one? Does it look like it should be good to go after some proofide treatment? I picked it up as it appeared to be in good shape for the age to me, but I don’t have the eye for it.

The red flags tend to be severe cracking (which yours does not have), tears around the rivets, severe bowing of the leather, excessive use of the tension bolt, or a bent metal frame. That one looks to be in good shape. Just a thin layer of Proofide as recommended by Brooks and it should be good to go.

I knew to look for the cracking around the bolts, thanks for the tips. The only brooks I’ve ever ridden has bee a new one, other than that it’s been turbos.

Anyone know what these may weigh? Mine hasn’t arrived yet. Comparable to a b17 or heavier?

I have a couple of Belt saddles, and find them comfortable. In my experience, they don't break in the way a Brooks does. After a few hundred miles, the Brooks will start to develop dimples where your sit bones are. A Belt saddle never will. But I find them just as comfortable as a Brooks. I mention that only so you won't panic when the saddle seems not to be breaking in and oversoften it by treating it with neatsfoot oil or some such softening agent. Just treat it with a little Proofide (I use Sno-Seal, myself) and ride it.

Treat it with the respect it deserves.

The F-17 Standard weighs 840 grams = 29.63 oz.

I have a 1964 Fujita catalog posted on my Fuji blog which is here:

https://classicfuji.posthaven.com/fu...log-circa-1968

Scott

Yes, this. I have one that is so old that it was cracked badly when I got it. A couple good soaks in leather conditioner brought it back to life, but it never got comfortable. I even cut the slot in it, to imperialize it, to no gain. It now holds a space in my saddle drawer, awaiting an opportunity to be mounted on a bike to be sold.

Thats kind of a lot! I guess this isn’t something you’d notice though.

I had one of those a few years back & it cleaned up real nice with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Zymol-Zym%C3%...0009JKISQ?th=1

I bought it to clean & protect an old leather jacket. It did a good job on that item too.

A used saddle is always an unknown. If the leather has dried out, the fibres have broken and the leather will tear with use.
No treatment can remedy that.
After the Proofide treatment, and a little use you find it uncomfortable, then you can accelerate the forming of the leather to your sit bones. Just apply a dampened cloth to the top. leave it for about 30 minutes until the leather is damp. Then go for a ride. The pressure from your sit bones will mould the leather to your shape. Spend about 30 min on the saddle, with frequent checks to see if you are making an impression. Once you have the shape you are after, leave the saddle to dry over a few days without any further use.
A thin coat of Proofide and see how that goes.

Wet moulding vegetable tanned leather is how the saddle shape is formed. You are just using the leather tanning characteristics to form the leather to your shape.
Last weekend, I cut a new leather cover and then immersed the leather for about 30 min in a bucket of water and then I moulded the wet leather into the desired shape. It is a very narrow Sprinter width which I am making into a Swallow style.