Mine are the polished ones :thumb:

They're replacing a mis-matched set of Synergy/Atlas, so I'm in the same boat!

What to do, having a MTB/touring grade set of 650b wheels....what to do....;)

they tension and true so well. I should use good rims more often.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...3888b3cc6d.jpg

You should go way down in pressure. You'll see why.

Any problems with crank length from the conversion and lower overall bike height?

A 650B has been on my to-do list for my Univega Via Carisma. Partly to lower the height a bit -- the frame is slightly large for me but generally comfortable after tweaking the fit with a different stem and handlebar. But I'm also hoping the conversion will contribute to a plusher ride.

Much as I like the bike with the current setup -- Nitto albatross bar -- something about it jolts my old neck injury the wrong way on chipseal. And chipseal has increasingly become the standard pavement in my area. I've tried various height/reach tweaks but nothing quite resolves the problem.

Recently I switched my Ironman to latex tubes and was surprised by how much it improved the ride quality. It's more comfortable on bad roads with latex tubes and decent 700x25 tires than my Univega with 700x38 tires at lower pressure.

I'm at the limit of tire width with the 700c setup, but there's plenty of room for fatter tires if I convert to 650B. Even if I could fit fatter 700c tires, it would also raise the overall bike height, which is already marginally tall for me. I think it's a 58cm frame, maybe 60cm, and I'm 5'11" with 33" inseam.

I'll probably need to replace the 175 cranks with 170 to make it work and ensure enough clearance.

I have 3 bikes with 650b conversions. A 175, 172.5 and 170 crank on the respective bikes. I really dont notice pedal strike issues on any of them. The 175 is on a px10.

@canklecat, everyone is different, but somehow I can adjust to stuff like that easily. When I'm on a bike at risk of pedal strike, I coast through turns without thinking about it. You might be able to, also.

I’ve only ever hit once, and I was probably doing something stupid.

For this build, the difference between the old 700x28 and the new 650x42 is a reduction in diameter of at most 3mm. So, negligible in terms of standover height, but transformative in terms of ride quality!

Can you quantify “way down” for me?

in my exp on 38s about 35 to 40 psi is real nice, but i weigh 200 lbs. I very often start higher.

I can't quantify. I weigh 165. On 32mm tires, I am in danger of bottoming out on potholes at 30 psi, but I've managed. The more weight you have, the higher pressure you require. The wider tire you have, the less pressure you require.

Same. It's shocking how easy it is to do that. About half of mine come out like that

Well I just started thinking about a 650b conversion on my 80 Trek 414.

Try taking them down to 40 and see how they ride. If you don't bottom out, you can try going down some more until you find the sweet spot.

The way should be clear. Proceed

I never saw the bike in person, got it from nlearner and he sent it directly to gugie
As sold to me, nlearner's pic
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...c0cb405313.jpg
After a little massaging, the gugieficatizion.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...06810ed447.jpg
Now if this Covid-19 crap would go away and I could get back to the States I could build it up. Looking at Dura-Ace 7600, I think, with some nice Velocity rims and some Paselas 650bx40.
Gugie built it for Mafac racers. Hopefully it will replace my Centurion Pro-tour here are my #1 bike.

killer!

Bottom bracket is knackered. It’s a Performance-branded cartridge bearing unit I bought about thirty years ago. I suppose I can retire it finally....

I came this close to ordering the ubiquitous Shimano UN55 replacement. Thank goodness I came to my senses and ordered a NOS SunTour cup-and-cone unit for three times the price. :notamused::eek::wtf::50: