found one for cheap and ordered it.

Then I found this pic of what bikesmith uses.

http://bikesmithdesign.com/SA/cone-wrench-mod.jpg

Yet another odd Raleigh finds it's way into my stable...

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/IMG_0985.jpg

Found at the Sunday antique bike show in Trexlertown. At first I thought it was another grey bike but as I got closer I noticed that it was chrome. I snatched it up quickly and didn't even argue the price.

It's a bit crusty but should shine up for the most part. Has a 1966 dated rear hub. Appears correct and complete except for some cheap rubber block pedals that the seller threw in with it.

That should clean up fine- not one you see every day. I'm sorry I missed the show this year. The trip length and weather kept me out this time around.

Very nice find! <turns slightly green>

From our Catch and Release program:

1969 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist
1972 Raleigh DL-1 Tourist
1969 Raleigh Superbe

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279425http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279426http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279427

Note that on your drive side you have the rectangular washer that locks the position of the cone, but on the non-drive side you don't. That anti-turn washer makes life easier. Any chance you can get one, from another hub or from the bike shop or whatever?

If not, it doesn't really matter as long as the non-drive side is nice and snug as you describe. The fine tuning is done on the drive side. The Sturmey Archer instructions say to turn the cone down finger tight, then turn it back a quarter of a revolution (or a little more, or a little less, whatever it takes to get the rectangular washer to lock against it) then tighten the locknut against it. Since the rectangular washer will prevent the cone from turning, the locknut doesn't have to be very tight.

I'm seeing a second nut between the locknut and what looks like the anti-rotation washer and no anti-ration washer on the drive side. If the anti-rotation washer is not getting seated into the dropout on the non-drive side, this would allow the hub to rotate (slightly) during hard peddaling and thus over time tighten the axle nut and cone which would cause "ghost peddaling as described.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279491

It's done!

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279492
This shows the M6 bolt that went into the recently tapped hole.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279493

Nicely done. I got your PM about the unique situation of your braze-on. I think you had the best of all worlds- pre-drilled properly but not tapped, leaving you to tap it out the way you want. I found that it appears old Raleigh Sports pad bolts seem to fit the stock braze-on threads. I had some old Raleigh Sports pad holders around and extracted the screw from one of them. It turns out it screws into the braze-on hole nicely. From what I can tell the stock is 1/4" diameter with 26 TPI pitch. I also have some screws on order from a place in New York called British Fasteners, which has a variety of English threaded bolts and nuts. I'll report back when I try a British Fastener bolt. For now though, I think I have a candidate in the re-used Raleigh Sports brake pad bolt.

Fantastico!

Sig. Worthy! :)

Pictures are in a Photobucket album and I am now in search of a fourth grader to help me post them here. I'd rather be polishing spokes.....I posted a lengthy description of an old mystery bicycle that followed me home last week. It looks very much like Sheldon Brown's 1954 Superbe he has pictured on his site, except that it has 26 inch wheels. If the original bicycle had 28 wheels, could they have been replaced with the 26 inch stainless steel wheels and still maintain the original rod brakes? Would stainless wheels help to date the bicycle?

STS

Raleigh Dawn Tourist, perhaps?

They were 26" wheel bikes with rod brakes. Stainless rims were an option for a long time with a number of manufacturers. I have a 1946 Schwinn New World with them.

Here's a bad shot of a Rudge-branded version that I saw for sale at Hershey last week. It needed some help but you get the idea of what they look like...

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/IMG_0929.jpg

Here is picture of my Dawn taken in my messy house on the night I brought it home. This was 2001 and it still lives in the upstairs bedroom. Like most of my Raleighs, this one is on oddball with a lot of blackout parts, war grade tires, and a rear hub with no date codes.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...kraleigh-1.jpg

The mystery bicycle is very similar. The part of the chain case covering the chainring is missing.

BTW, we are almost neighbors. As always, thanks for your help. I purchased a Sprite a year ago off the Lancaster CL and now have three Sports, a Dunelt, and my favorite, a made in England Royce Union. I certainly don't need another, but it's already here........I have not yet purchased this one and certainly don't need it. It would be nice to see it back on the road instead of gathering dust.

STS

Just because someone wrote it in a book does not make it so. Actually the Northroad handlebar, named after the bicycle club, was intended to be used upright or as a semi-dropped bar for weekend touring. While some undoubtedly used it for racing, it hardly has enough drop to be ideal for that. It was some time later that Raleigh used it on their new 26" tired Sports bicycle. Of course, I read that in books when I was a kid, only the books were from the 1930's, 1940's, and early 1950's and were published in England. The Detroit Public Library must of had 20 books like that in the early 50's. A recent search for an inter-library loan found only one of them, and they would not loan it out, too old and valuable they claimed. Those books cost $0.25-$1.00 new, they all were cheap paperbacks. I did find a used listing to the one I particularly wanted, but decided I did not want it $50 worth.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279768My old Humber has been a bit neglected. It has a three speed dyno rear hub. I was told it was over 30 years old when my brother did it up as a Xmas present back in the 60's. The original rear hub had the dyno taken out, but I found one with the lights at some stage. It is in great need of an overhaul (and tidy up). Because I am having a lot of trouble finding the right cotter pins, the overhaul is on a bit of a wait.

How much was that bike in Hershey? I'm particularly fond of these and working on one now, but it has drum brakes with rods rather than stirrup brakes. It has a Danish serial number stamp on the seat tube.

However, that pictured bike has some variations from the usual Dawn. It's still an interesting machine.

From what I can see, the grips, saddle, and tires are incorrect on this bike. It had a $500.00 price tag when I saw it on Tuesday. It was gone when I came back through late Wednesday so someone got it but who knows what they paid for it.

Hershey was pretty good for English bikes this year. I picked this up for $50.00 and sold it to a friend a little later in the day.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/IMG_0933.jpg

Bought this clean 1971 Twenty on Tuesday. It had lots of little things wrong with it but I got them all squared away.

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/IMG_0994.jpg

I also picked up a ladies 1952 Sports with a complete chaincase. It had a damaged frame and fork so it's now a parts bike.

I saw an early DL-1 with a chaincase that had bad chrome but decent paint and all the goodies were in it including a serviceable B-73. Asking price was $250 early in the show.

$500 is high, I think. It's definitely different, but I wouldn't toss $500 at it. Maybe someone talked it down. I missed Hershey and Trexlertown unfortunately. I've been in the hunt for a nice, dark green chain case for a 26 Sports type frame (not the bronze green but the regular forest green), and it would have been nice to hit these meets to look around. Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose I guess.

Took my 1950 Raleigh Clubman for a club ride on Saturday. Technically, it's a 4-speed with a Sturmey-Archer FW hub, but otherwise it seems to fit this thread:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...3251051B21.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...47D0D2EFEF.JPG

I rode mine on Saturday too, Neal. Loved it!

Great job, Ivan!

My experience has taught me, that if the hub is performing properly not to mess with it at all. They are extremely bullet proof and reliable. The only problems I've encountered is when I've tried to "fix" one.
That being said, the advice offered above is correct. There should be some play in the bearings. As with most things British it's more a sense of feel.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=279979

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...g/IMG_0933.jpg

Why with so many of the Raleigh Sports do you see so many of the front fenders
that aren't parallel with the wheel... they bow out and look like they don't fit the wheel?

http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/...psd69df71f.jpg

If this worked, I'm ready to build a wheel! This is the mystery Raleigh I brought home last week.

STS