The problem you face is that there is no practical way of cutting the cable without a cable cutter tool. They cost around $15. The cable housing looks to be in good condition and on a vintage bike like this, you want to reuse it. Modern bike shop mechanics won't understand this and will likely insist that you need a whole new cable. Don't believe 'em. All you need is the inner cable. The frayed end of the old cable needs to be cut off. It might help to hang the cable upright and spray some penetrating oil into the housing and let it work it's way down inside. Then you should be able to slide the old inner cable out. Then, oil up the new cable and slide it through the housing and wipe it off a few times. Install the new inner cable, set up the brake, then cut it off to length.

The little "nipple" needs to be seated in the lever.
A new cable should only be about $2.00.

The Speedwell just got a bit more interesting today - I pulled it apart to clean it, and found a stamp on the steerer of the fork "Made in England A & P B". Underneath all the surface rust is a lot more pin-striping on the frame than I thought. I'll need to find a 40h 3 speed hub or shell; and keep working at removing the stuck stem, it's like it's welded in there! I've soaked it, heated it, cooled it, I guess I'll just keep repeating. Weird because the seat post slipped out really easily. The westwood rims are borderline on the inside, any more rust and I would have retired them. I'm going to ask on an Australian forum if anyone knows what year it is based on the serial number. I'm thinking A57584 may mean 1957.

Haven't seen this shifter before. Maybe a 1961
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/r...400884505.html

Attachment 590294

S5 $60 most of it is there https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...397854346.html

Attachment 590297

From what I can see in the photos everything looks Birmingham except the fenders. So I'll guess 60 or 61 too

I need a complete fulcrum clamp, plastic stop is OK. I have a complete pulley clamp to trade, the wheel is plastic.

Probably indicates Accles & Pollock "B" tubing:

Accles & Pollock main

Thanks that's great John! That's an interesting read, I had looked up A & P bicycle manufacturers but nothing came up. What a great name 'Accles and Pollock' :) The 'B' is separate to the other inscriptions. I had thought it was a size, but as you say, according to the article it's B quality tubing.

Here's the fork post-clean, pre-polish, I'm hoping the colours, particularly the red, will pop more after a polish:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/...9f7d7a8b_h.jpgIMG20171127082120 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

Hi guys, I am trying to remove the rear fender on the 69 raleigh sports and I have removed all the bolts but now I see there is like a clip near the chainguard which keeps the fender attached. I also see a small piece of metal that I can push in but the fender is not coming off. Any ideas?

Is the fulcrum clamp the shift cable stop on the top bar close to the front with the slotted plastic insert? If so I'll send you one I still have the box with your address on it. It should be in decent shape after a clean up & complete. I robbed that picture not the one.
https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.E...=0&w=202&h=152

What you should have is a clip like this at the very front of the rear fender.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-Bakfin-...0AAOSwfIxZa64g
It hooks into the fender on one side and the round side clips over the small cross tube on the frame. You should be able to push the round clip part up to release it from the frame leaving the clip attached to the fender.

The clip is just held on by its shape, it should push off that part of the frame fairly easily. Not sure what you mean by the small piece of metal, can you post a pic of it? edit: just as BC describes :) but show us a pic of the small piece of metal, is it in the way of the fender coming off?

That clip will pop off easily after you unfasten the mount at the rear brake center bolt. Just keep things in order as you take it apart an remove the whole brake caliper assm. Let the fender drop down a bit to clear the brake mount cross brace and pop it up from down below. Reverse order to reassemble.

I've never had a steel stem stuck but I did have pawl pins rusted tight in an AW hub once. I was worried that the whole assembly might be toast until I gave it an overnight soak in evapo rust. In the morning the rust was gone and the pins came right out. Just a thought.

Yes, my thoughts were heading exactly in this direction. The wedge is still in there too. I'll plug it up when I get home and put some evaporust in there to soak.

Are these bars, stem, and levers English 3 speed parts? They were on a older Schwinn I picked up recently but don't look like Schwinn parts to me.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lFXvsCagBt...593-741252.JPG

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9myK2kcFdg...594-738305.JPG

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GZvHEqcD05...595-734370.JPG

Thanks johnnyspaghetti, I replyed to your PM.

The bars & neck appear to be standard Raleigh although the type of wedge to cinch the neck tight I haven't seen on a Raleigh, Hercules, Dunelt, Robinhood, many other store brands American & Canadian & elswhere. & Huffy. All English made. Raleigh did make Schwinn's around this era but I just don't have date parameters. I have a neck like that was on a 1969 that style I'v seen on 68's too. Same on top but the wedge was conical & round spreading the bottom of the neck tube. The brakes levers look to be Weinmann.
Are the calipers aluminum? Do they have markings?

I have those levers on a Sears 3 speed made by Steyr in Austria. They are indeed Weinmann levers mated with Weinmann aluminum side pull brakes.

That's a Brampton shifter. Its compatible with SA hubs- Brampton also made copies of the SA hubs.

Thanks for the info. The calipers are Schwinn script Weinmann. It's possible the levers and calipers came from the same bike because the Schwinn script may not be original to this 1960 Varsity. The stem and bars are available cheap if anyone here needs them. Here's a pic of the Schwinn after switching to drops (repainted and incorrect decals):

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P5cexzvSSM...598-746362.JPG

Huh?:foo:

I've always heard that Schwinn made all of their bikes in that era. They wanted anything with "Schwinn" on it to be built in their Chicago factory. They only started to outsource bike production in the mid-70's, when they realized they could not build lightweight 10 speeds (except Paramounts and the fillet-brazed models) in house, so they had Panasonic build the Le Tour.

Anyone else want to weigh in?

I don't think the stem was Raleigh made.

Well, I think it's a Hercules shifter. As you say, like Hercules, Brampton had their own version of the SA hub. Here's the shifter.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sg...=w1172-h903-no

^^ That too is a Brampton. I have the first style (in the prior photo) on one of my bikes so I know they made them both ways. Funny that the Hercules and Brampton shifters look identical. Is the Hercules rebranded?

I suspect that Brampton was the actual manufacturer of the Hercules branded Sturmey Archer clone hubs as well as the shifters.

Ha, twins. I'd forgotten about the Hercules Herailleur shifter. They (Brampton?) made both shifters and hubs for both marques.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yO...=w1596-h903-no

A quick question to the cognoscenti: best shifting technique on a British 3-speed that would go easy on the mechanicals?

I just joined the British 3-speed club by acquiring 1960 (?) Raleigh-in-disguise Sports. I got my first (thrilling!) spin yesterday, and want to avoid damaging the machine.
As an example, I haven't lubricated the hub yet (discovery stage), and there is a slight delay in shifting - normal, or should I adjust my technique?

Rule #1... you HAVE to bring pictures!:roflmao2:
Rule #2 add some oil to the hub

When riding on an IGH you need to let up a bit when shifting, some people stop pedaling completely.

Unless the hub is way out of adjustment and you put our 750 watts of power you will be hard put to damage a Sturmey-Archer AW. Good news is if you do manage to break it, there are plenty of repair parts available.

Aaron:)