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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

Salubrious 03-30-20 09:56 AM


Originally Posted by Ged117 (Post 21388103)
Hi folks. I'm just about at the test ride stage of this build. 700c wheels with sturmey archer four speed hub and dynohub. For those who have worked on dynohubs, what level of play at the hub when installed and tight is to be expected? I've followed the proper procedure for cones and what not. Just seems to have more than a hint of play. Chain line is 95 percent. It might need to be a bit tighter. I may adjust the wheel position in the dropouts. Before the pandemic hit I was going to have a more modern alloy 26mm seat post brought down to 24mm, but it's too late. For the moment I'm stuck with the old one. Apart from that the headset is original (and in great shape). Handlebar is a Sakae unit off of my Voyageur. Original mafac calipers with kool stop pads and the Dia Compe levers off the Voyageur. Thoughts on the dynohub play? The FW is shifting beautifully.

Generally speaking, one of the differences between four-speeds and 3-speeds is that there really shouldn't be any play in the cones of a four-speed.

At least here in Minnesota, bike shops are considered an 'essential industry' as they are in the transportation sector.

Ged117 03-30-20 11:35 AM


Originally Posted by Salubrious (Post 21391367)
Generally speaking, one of the differences between four-speeds and 3-speeds is that there really shouldn't be any play in the cones of a four-speed.

At least here in Minnesota, bike shops are considered an 'essential industry' as they are in the transportation sector.

Here in Ontario they may stay open as essential businesses too. A few local bike shops have. My go-to has decided to close, but there is another nearby for consumables if necessary.

Thanks for the tip about the cones. There is no discernible play in the four-speed hub. It is very smooth and the cranks do not rotate when the bike is pushed forward. Tomorrow is going to be sunny so I'm going to take the bike out at lunchtime for the shakedown.

BigChief 03-30-20 12:56 PM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 21390527)
Just popping in to see how everyone is doing during this difficult time... this really is the thread that never ends.

I hope you are all doing well.

Good to see you. This is a great thread you started. I thought I was all alone with my English roadster hobby until I found this nice group.

julius rensch 03-30-20 01:22 PM

glad to be here, Big Chief
 

Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21391833)
Good to see you. This is a great thread you started. I thought I was all alone with my English roadster hobby until I found this nice group.

glad to be here Big Chief.....thanx for this ever popular topic...
while it's still abit to cold and windy, my old faithful Raleigh Tourist beckons..
as ever, Julius in Ohio

thorstein 03-30-20 10:11 PM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21391884)
while it's still abit to cold and windy, my old faithful Raleigh Tourist beckons..
as ever, Julius in Ohio

Speaking of Tourists beckoning, I put mine together in "scorcher mode" as I've been treating the fenders & chain guard to remove rust & preserve the patina.

I got in a nice 20 mile spin, beautiful day today.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12fb44c4a8.jpg

jackbombay 03-30-20 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21392726)
Speaking of Tourists beckoning, I put mine together in "scorcher mode" as I've been treating the fenders & chain guard to remove rust & preserve the patina.

I got in a nice 20 mile spin, beautiful day today.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12fb44c4a8.jpg

Head tube angle looks absurdly laid back on that bike, I see the rear tire is slightly lower than the front tire, but...

BigChief 03-31-20 05:57 AM

I think the frame geometry is what makes these bikes so comfortable on poor road surfaces. My DL-1 is much nicer to ride on bumpy and gravel roads than my Sports.

thorstein 03-31-20 07:12 AM


Originally Posted by jackbombay (Post 21392741)
Head tube angle looks absurdly laid back on that bike, I see the rear tire is slightly lower than the front tire, but...

Yes, quite laid back; I think the lack of fenders accentuates the slack angles. It is such a smooth ride! I agree that the angles probably contribute to the ride quality, but I think the tall wide tires also play a part.

Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?

The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.

BigChief 03-31-20 08:12 AM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21393024)
Yes, quite laid back; I think the lack of fenders accentuates the slack angles. It is such a smooth ride! I agree that the angles probably contribute to the ride quality, but I think the tall wide tires also play a part.

Braking has improved since I installed Kool Stop brake shoes, made some slight adjustments to the linkages, & got the wheels trued - not that the braking was that bad to begin with. I've never understood the comments about horrid stopping power with rod brakes, but maybe that's because the brakes on my Tourist were set up well when I got it?

The brakes on my Raleigh Twenty, that I understand! The rear calipers flex & even with new pads they don't grab the rim.

Kool Stop inserts are the best pads I've found. I can see that you also have the proper distance between the brake levers and the hand grips. This helps a lot. Sometimes they get bent in too close and need to be bent out again. I also think there is some advantage to mount the front brake pads leading the stirrup like you have.

thorstein 03-31-20 08:55 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21393123)
Kool Stop inserts are the best pads I've found. I can see that you also have the proper distance between the brake levers and the hand grips. This helps a lot. Sometimes they get bent in too close and need to be bent out again. I also think there is some advantage to mount the front brake pads leading the stirrup like you have.

With the front brake leading the stirrup and adjusted with minimum clearance it really grabs.

JIMBO53 03-31-20 03:59 PM

Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f07ec624d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7cfd658db.jpg

clubman 03-31-20 04:03 PM


Originally Posted by JIMBO53 (Post 21394042)
Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.

Bike of the week award! That's pristine and I love the presstube rack still in place. That's a hard one to find these days.

Iron Horse 03-31-20 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21393212)
With the front brake leading the stirrup and adjusted with minimum clearance it really grabs.

I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

jackbombay 03-31-20 10:51 PM


Originally Posted by JIMBO53 (Post 21394042)
Here is my 1971 Tourist DL-1 w/28" wheels and rod brakes. Paint, chrome and Dunlop Roadster tires all original.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0f07ec624d.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d7cfd658db.jpg

That bike is spectacular!!!!

Ged117 04-01-20 06:22 AM


Originally Posted by clubman (Post 21394047)
Bike of the week award! That's pristine and I love the presstube rack still in place. That's a hard one to find these days.

I have the original presstube rack for my Superbe. It looks to have been white and black. I'm thinking of refinishing it in a cream colour for my bike. Man is it a heavy part though...

I took the Peugeot with an FW alloy four-speed out for a shakedown ride yesterday. The FW shifts really nicely - I'm very happy about that. A few adjustments of the stem and seatpost to be made and of course handlebar tape.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zZ...w2054-h1540-no

BigChief 04-01-20 06:56 AM


Originally Posted by Iron Horse (Post 21394481)
I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

Later Raleigh front rod brakes use arms that offset the pads from the center line of the stirrup. This was done to smooth out the braking action making it less grabby. You can either mount the pad assembly in front or behind the stirrup. Mounting it behind the stirrup would be "leading" considering the direction the wheel rotates.

BigChief 04-01-20 07:34 AM

For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders. The holders have a split tube formed into them that is closed at one end and open at the other. So you must be careful to mount the assembly on the bike in the right direction. What you do to install the new pads is open a vise just enough to catch the sides of the tube and use a hammer and punch to drift out the old pads and press the new ones in. The Kool Stop pads have curved tops that match the radius of the rim. Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.

thorstein 04-01-20 08:53 AM


Originally Posted by BigChief (Post 21394898)
For anyone replacing rod brake pads the first time, I'll pass along my experience. Kool Stop salmon pads are meant to be used with the original Raleigh pad holders.
...
Now, you can also buy Fibrax pads that come complete with holders that are closed on both ends, but they are not curved to match the rim. I suppose you are expected to let them wear into shape. I've tried this. It doesn't work. With only the front and rear edges of the pads contacting the rim, it's like having no brakes at all. I highly recommend using Kool Stops in the original pad holders.

I did a write up a bit ago on replacing brake shoes with pictures. It was maybe a bit over-done...

Rod brake shoe/pad install/remove

Huszi 04-01-20 09:01 AM

Nice

thorstein 04-01-20 11:10 AM


Originally Posted by Iron Horse (Post 21394481)
I have a 74 DL-1, could you explain what you are doing by leading the stirrup, please? I haven't done anything with mine yet, but when I do, I'd like to know how to efficiently set up the brakes.
Thanks!

Here is a picture showing how the brake shoe holder is leading the stirrup:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...691bbaccd0.jpg
If the brake shoe is put on the other side, it isn't pushed up into the rim, so it doesn't grab as much.

avecReynolds531 04-03-20 01:53 AM

I've kindly been given this Elswick 1960 Light Roadster, as it was going to be thrown away. Here are a few photos, as first seen, after decades in a garage. I have no experience of classic 3 speed roadsters.

There's a lot of character there and I'm happy it has been saved from the bike graveyard. Looking forward to catching up on a genre of bike I've completely missed out on, and a return
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...93acfc041b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e7d2905e3c.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...b59cbb42bf.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...068e08a245.jpg
to the road for this lovely old bike.

julius rensch 04-03-20 07:24 AM

avec Reynolds
 
Love that vintage Elswick...first that I have heard of that brand...is it an offshoot of Rudge or Raleigh?

Julius in Ohio

Kilroy1988 04-03-20 07:29 AM


Originally Posted by julius rensch (Post 21398348)
Love that vintage Elswick...first that I have heard of that brand...is it an offshoot of Rudge or Raleigh?

Julius in Ohio

Absolutely not... It's an old brand with a rich heritage! In fact it was one of few big UK bicycle manufacturers to evade being sucked in by the whole TI Raleigh business.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elswick_Hopper

gster 04-03-20 07:35 AM


Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver (Post 21390527)
Just popping in to see how everyone is doing during this difficult time... this really is the thread that never ends.

I hope you are all doing well.

Yes...
Look what you started!

gster 04-03-20 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by thorstein (Post 21392726)
Speaking of Tourists beckoning, I put mine together in "scorcher mode" as I've been treating the fenders & chain guard to remove rust & preserve the patina.

I got in a nice 20 mile spin, beautiful day today.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...12fb44c4a8.jpg

That bike looks like it really wants to go somewhere...


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