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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
(Post 22601118)
1967 Raleigh Sprite is pretty much done. I'm nearing the end of testing everything out and getting everything finalized. It came out pretty nicely, but condition is king when you find these bikes. Starting with something in very good condition is a big help, versus something where everything needs to be re-done.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...805_180706.jpg https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...805_183546.jpg https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...805_180721.jpg https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...805_183607.jpg https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...805_180729.jpg |
Re: Recent discussion on Drop Bar Sports, I found this in my files.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2d133b7f03.jpg |
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
(Post 22601118)
1967 Raleigh Sprite is pretty much done. I'm nearing the end of testing everything out and getting everything finalized. It came out pretty nicely, but condition is king when you find these bikes. Starting with something in very good condition is a big help, versus something where everything needs to be re-done.
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Originally Posted by steve21108
(Post 22602112)
Pretty amazing! I have only ever seen one of those hubs. It is the two cable five speed? What is the model designator of that hub?
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
(Post 22602214)
It's a Sturmey Archer S5 5-speed hub. Non-drive lever controls the bell crank, drive side controls the clutch.
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Originally Posted by SirMike1983
(Post 22602214)
It's a Sturmey Archer S5 5-speed hub. Non-drive lever controls the bell crank, drive side controls the clutch.
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Thanks for the kind words. The Sprite came to me in very good shape, which reduces the replacing parts and work that has to be done. It was nice to have a bike that could be totally gone over in just a few weekends instead of needing to be torn all the way down and built back up. I like to put big cogs on these S5 hubs because then you can have a very low gear for climbing, but still have enough top end for downhills.
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https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e2c5e7d2fe.jpg
One of two Hercules 3-speeds I've got (along with a Raleigh Superbe and a Raleigh Sports). Now living in the very hilly Catskills has rendered them impractical..... so for now this one will do duty as an ornament on the porch. |
Have to ask: What mounting trick are you using to get it to fit there?
-Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22604152)
Have to ask: What mounting trick are you using to get it to fit there?
-Kurt |
Originally Posted by Unca_Sam
(Post 22604186)
It's tires are on the casing, and the handlebars and dropout are likely wired to the wall above it.
-Kurt |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22604188)
I figured as much, but was hoping for a picture of the magic (and perhaps a recommendation for what wire was used).
-Kurt To each, their own, I guess. |
Originally Posted by cudak888
(Post 22604152)
Have to ask: What mounting trick are you using to get it to fit there?
-Kurt |
I'm new to the club. Two different bike enthusiasts gifted me "Raleigh" 3-speeds, a Huffy and a Royal Scot.
The Huffy is pristine and is going to an ex that is still dear to me. The Royal Scot is at the top of my queue for restorations. It's a keeper. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1759d1f999.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...0ae52be7c0.jpg |
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Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22607527)
$54 in OH.
Might be a good platform for a custom if the plan involves a trip to the paint shop. -Kurt |
Originally Posted by SirMike1983
(Post 22602710)
Thanks for the kind words. The Sprite came to me in very good shape, which reduces the replacing parts and work that has to be done. It was nice to have a bike that could be totally gone over in just a few weekends instead of needing to be torn all the way down and built back up. I like to put big cogs on these S5 hubs because then you can have a very low gear for climbing, but still have enough top end for downhills.
I have a similar bike in Burgandy... I added the throttle controls to mine https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af758ba466.jpg |
Originally Posted by thumpism
(Post 22607527)
$54 in OH.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...18123262683778 https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...3w&oe=62FA7C7D |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 22608406)
Very nice.
I have a similar bike in Burgandy... I added the throttle controls to mine -Kurt |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 22608406)
Very nice.
I have a similar bike in Burgandy... I added the throttle controls to mine https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...af758ba466.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8fa1f6a374.jpg I since got some 3D printed but haven't put them back together. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4e09aa3699.jpg |
Originally Posted by browngw
(Post 22608579)
I would pass at $54. The rims, particularly the front look crusty and the everything else looks tired and beat. Could be used as a "beater bike" if you were into that kind of thing.
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Hi, here's what I hope is a new topic, but I apologize if it is old hat.
I'm rebuilding my 1952 Rudge Aero Special, a 27" Reynolds-framed drop bar bike made in Nottingham. Current stage is to install the H/S cups and the fork. I've been told the head tube IDs are to be 30.0 mm, and mine are (actually 29.97 mm, if I can believe my Harbor Freight digital caliper!). Also, Park Tool says the maximum allowed interference in such a press-fit installation is to be maximum 0.2 mm (not 0.20 mm for some reason). My fixed cups have OD of 30.28 mm, so the interference is too great to use, if Park Tool is correct. Has anyone ever installed a HS with this much interference? The head tube is 531 with nicely brazed lugs and 70 years old. Should I go ahead and use these cups? They MIGHT be the ones which came out of the frame originally, actually I think they are, but I didn't mark them carefully when I pressed them out and put them in the parts cleaner. Am I really at risk of cracking my head tube if I force these in, with a pretty decent HS press? BTW, the bike frame size is about 54 or 55 cm c-c with 27" wheels. Overall geometry is long and laid back, a precursor to the Super Course and the International of 1971. |
Originally Posted by dedhed
(Post 22608748)
I ended up putting those on mine after I broke one of the plastic ones.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...8fa1f6a374.jpg I since got some 3D printed but haven't put them back together. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4e09aa3699.jpg |
Originally Posted by Road Fan
(Post 22568520)
I have a 1972 that same brown, but the finish is all dinged and a lot of the brown is rust. I'd like to fix it up for Mrs. Road Fan so she can ride the Lake Pepin with me next year. Maybe I'll just strip it down and have it powdered or may be I can get on Franklin's list for a delivery next January ...
Anybody know a source of good decals? (Also, I'm trying to get to 10 posts so I can share pics of my 700c converted, threadless/stem headset, shimano BB super modernized 1976 sports.) |
Originally Posted by raleigh76
(Post 22611709)
I just bought a set of decals off Ebay. My sports is a 1976 Canadian version, with the white seat tube decal which I couldn't find anywhere, but the rest match up.
(Also, I'm trying to get to 10 posts so I can share pics of my 700c converted, threadless/stem headset, shimano BB super modernized 1976 sports.) |
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