@Loose Chain, what you say about fit makes sense.

If you use a B17, you'll probably find the most comfort from tipping the nose up so much that it looks painful, but it won't be. When you are upright on a bike, your pubic bone is higher than your sit bones.

Many thanks. I just dug through my box of treasures and found a Secret Santa gift from a few years ago that should be a good fit!

I prefer the B66. The double rail is pd correct. I got mine off of Amazon for like $110 or there abouts. Didn't even have to think twice on that one.

My "bump" is on the right side, Neal's is on the left. Could these features be traffic lane specific. My right-sided "bump" makes sense for mounting a light if driving in the left lane.

My light seems to be currently configured for a left fork, right traffic lane, application. That makes sense for the way we drive here.

Thanks to all for your patience with my questions. Do we, or they, drive on the right side of the road?

STS

Yes, that's what I understand: Raleighs made for the US market (such as my '49 Clubman) had the bump on the left fork blade; UK market on the right fork blade. Very considerate, right?

Also goes for some of the bikes having the right/ left brake lever orientation.

This little darling followed me home today - for $60! Has Sturmey ARcher AW rear 3-speed and G6 front Dynohub, both dated 1973. This bike has surface rust and when I spin the rear wheel hear screeching horrible noise! This will be a project. Apparently the light works, but doesn't work when I spin the front wheel.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7745/...7d9e710bb6.jpg1973 Raleigh Twenty by velocivixen, on Flickrhttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7325/...6e1eda5408.jpgG6 Dyno Hub R20 by velocivixen, on Flickrhttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7072/...3e978f5cbd.jpgHead Light by velocivixen, on Flickrhttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7251/...93b39de189.jpgCirca 1973 Tail Light Raleigh Twenty by velocivixen, on Flickr
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/...1ff368b35f.jpgIndicator Chain by velocivixen, on Flickrhttps://farm8.staticflickr.com/7362/...3e308dfb7a.jpg1973 R20 Sturmey Archer AW Hub by velocivixen, on Flickr

Aonther one???

Here's a 53 Rudge, inside right fork leg, (British) with a Terry light bracket that fit's the bump.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...0/Terrys-1.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/Terrys-2.jpg

Yes, I suppose so but what is different with the Raleigh is that the top tube would go up with the "size" but the top tube remained the same length. Most bicycles as the top tubes go up it also gets longer proportionally. This is called proportional sizing and it does not seem that Raleigh proportionally sized these bikes. I find that odd, maybe it allowed them to streamline manufacturing to fewer assembly jigs?

Generally as your inseam goes up, lol, so does your torso length and arm length. Yeah, yeah, I know, we are all unique but if you plot out a large human sample on a Bell curve, that is what happens. Apparently the British inseam increases but in doing so their arms do not, lol. But, as I said earlier, I have measured so few of these bikes I cannot say what they did. Maybe I am wrong. No big deal, it is just a interest of mine, bike fit that is. We are all unique though, a wonder so many do so well with mass produced bikes.

I went to get another bike today but I was beaten to it, dang it. These things could get to be addicting, like the search for the Holy Grail, the perfect Raleigh Three Speed!

Apparently in the mid to late 70s the all steel bike discovered aluminum brakes.

The standard Raleigh pattern steel rim had the raised center, did they build any bikes also using a convex top rim?

Convex, don't think so.

That "backwards" brake thing is scary! My recently acquired 1958 Sun Cresta (Birmingham England) is like that.
http://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...0&d=1462119585

What wrench is used to remove the bottom bracket? Park tool number? I have the tools to remove the outer lock nut but the barrels (cups), left and right? I need to get in there on this new bike badly. I think there may be animals living in there or something!

That would be HCW-11 for the adjustable cup. Bikesmith sells a nifty tool for removing the fixed cup if you're inclined to do that. I generally don't remove them. At least not for a simple service.
edit here it is
http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/BBTool/

@Loose Chain I should also mention that, if you want to stay on the cheap. Since the fixed cup is LH threaded, you can just use a big bolt and whatever washers you need to get it tight on the cup and use a big breaker bar to tighten the nut until the cup breaks free. Just the friction of the washers on the cup is enough to hold it. This works, but BikeSmith's tool is better. Cleaning out the BB with the fixed cup still in place is an even better method IMO.

Was that you on The Raleigh Bicycle Nottingham facebook page? THat's a beautiful bike. I love the paint scheme. Kind of Miami Vice before there was a Miami Vice. It's seriously beautiful and has been put on my bucket list bike list.

Thanks for the compliment. Yes that was me on FB. Love that page and the bikes that show up there.
http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...m-england.html

A lot of really pretty bikes show up on that page. Thanks for the added pics! I don't know how I missed that thread. That bike is something special.

:lol: @Velocivixen, I think you have to change your name to Ms. Twenty! Nice score, though. It's too bad we're so far apart. You would appreciate my Twenty more than anyone else. One of these days, I'll finish rebuilding it and figure out what to do with it. My plan is to cut the head tube down a bit so I can install a modern threadless headset. Currently, it has aluminum rims, the original rear hub, and a SA drum brake front hub.

@noglider - yeah, I've got a problem. ;) No, seriously though....I was telling @gugie I could spend $60 a week in caffeine drinks! I haven't started taking it apart, but when I spin the front wheel...well, it doesn't spin. Makes horrible sounds. Poor hub.

I bet your R20 is something else. They're such a quirky, fun little platform for all sorts of bikey magic.

Switched bike projects time to the Rudge 3 speed conversion

Needed to remove the double crank http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=519808

Used the 3" C clamp, ratchet, tap hammer and lube the night before.

Results http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=519809 drive slide out almost instantly. Non drive side, nooooo! Going to be a fight. Back to lubing then have another pressure session tonight.

That explains your boundless energy!
If anybody can fix it, you're the gal! Take pics!

Wow! Here I was, thinking my 1937 men's model was in good shape for its age, but that's amazing! I paid substantially less for mine, though.

Abandoned the C clamp method to release the cotter. Clamp was stretching itself out and not exerting pressure on the pin. Probably should use a larger clamp when using this method.

Will try the vice in the workshed tomorrow. Not the best vice but can move this attempt to the LBS if it doesn't pan out.They let me do these kind of things. Intertaining.