$1.75 sticker price in 1970 would cost about $12.00 today....

Not only that, they used stainless rims too. I think they were done with that stuff sometime in the early 1950s.

What were they replaced with?

They were offered in addition to the chrome steel rims; not sure if they were an option on certain models or not. But my 1935 Sports I've been restoring turned out to have a set on it. They were so dirty I thought they were painted so it was quite a surprise to discover the stainless finish almost perfect under all the grime.

No spokes at all - flux capacitors in the hubs. Doc Brown must have been there.

Lol.
Good one.

Coffee break...Started the tear down on the early 70s Sports today. It doesn't really take my mind off my friends in Florida, but it keeps my hands busy. Everything looks good on this bike. Forks, chain stays, crank arms all straight. The head tube bearings adjust close with no binding anywhere. The rear hub runs quiet and shifts smoothly. Been soaking the cotters with penetrating oil all week. They are original and the R nuts are in good shape. Hopefully they will come out smoothly and I'll be able to reuse them. Who ever laced the CR-18 on the rear hub left loose spokes everywhere. Maybe I should stop being such a backyard mechanic and spring for a tension tester to use as I true it up. I found a pair of normal Raleigh brake levers in my spares box and I have an over supply of nice old trigger shifters. I think this will turn out to be a nice bike. It's going to be hard to resist buying a B 66 saddle for it.

What, you can't tune them like strings on a guitar and tell by the note when you strum them? :p
I look forward to seeing the complete build. Should be nice. :thumb:

I got modern years ago and use a Snark to tune my guitar. No kiddin, all these years I've just wiggled spokes and figured...that seems OK. I need to change that.

Second that to the pics when you are done @BigChief

My Sisters husband has the relatives from Florida camping at their house here in NC.

I picked up a '72 lady's Sports the other day to refurb for someone I sold a Raleigh mixte to earlier in the summer. She wants a Sports for a winter commuter. Well, I didn't realize until I got home that this is a 23" frame (which I've only seen once before). I pulled the stem out of it this morning, and it must over two feet long (and is clearly not the original). This bike had one tall rider at some point. Pics shortly.

Hey, does anyone have a close of shot of that threaded ferrule? I have one of those 50's window shifters, and need to find a cable for it.

Do you need a pic of the ferrule or cable? It's put together a one unit, can't be separated. I could get a pic tomorrow.

Sure. I always save these. Even if they are rusty like this.
edit: you screw them in all the way past the threads until they spin freely. That's why there's that unthreaded area on the stem.
Attachment 579880

Really nice fall weather here today: a few shots from a 1941 Schwinn 3-speed New World:

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-waLb2lnPK...909_182832.jpg

https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ae0GNvm63...909_182926.jpg

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y_iOktg63...909_182941.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8gMBB0wLp...909_182911.jpg

Another Project
 

Despite saying (to myself) NO MORE BIKES!!!
I'm going to pick this Superbe up today.
It was offered to me for a very reasonable $50.00 (CDN) and I couldn't resist.....
Looks fairly complete and in good shape.
Attachment 579899

Attachment 579900

Attachment 579901

Attachment 579902
Interesting repair on the shifter cable.....

When I first started working on these bikes I didn't realise how important and difficult to find some of
these little parts are.
Ferrules, cable stops, cable clips, hub locating washers etc are all worth their weight in gold.
I even recycle the old ribbed cable sheaths with new cables inside
There's nothing worse than getting a bike close to being finished and you're missing tiny washer/ferrule to complete...
I hate seeing those plastic cable pulls on a bike.

Ya can't pass up a bike like this for 50 bucks. Impossible. Nice find!
I did the teardown of my 50 dollar bike yesterday. The drive side cotter did bend a bit from pressing it out. Not too bad. I put the nut back on , chucked it up in the bench vice and tapped the body over to make it straight again. These cotters are pretty soft, I think I'll get away with this. So, the bike will have all of it's original R dome nuts.

Thank you for that link!

How 'bout both if you got it?

A couple nice specimens currently up at Portland CL:

First up, what looks like a 23" 70's Sports for just $60:
https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/...300299571.html
https://images.craigslist.org/00D0D_...H_1200x900.jpg

And...a nice late 60's (?) Sprite with the five speed hub! And just $150.
https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/...292939999.html
https://images.craigslist.org/00101_...P_1200x900.jpg

That Sprite looks really nice and a good price. I see this one was modified with top tube shifter cable routing, bare cable, no fulcrum clip and guide wheels. Just a guess, but I don't think this arrangement would work well, but who knows? I can say that any lover of 3 speeds should have one S5 bike in the stable. That's a plenty good enough excuse to get one in my book.

Hi all. Love my Sturmey-Archer (SA) 3spd! The 33% gear spacing is wonderful, but I am experiencing axle twist that snaps washers, serrated lock nuts and even shattered a shift side axle nut into three pieces with the torque I put through it. I'm wondering if there is any type of premade metal bracket or torque arm that already has the exact SA 13/32 flat sided slot in it that I can adapt to my "electric assist" ride.

The bike is a Soma B-Side V2 Belt Drive with a Bafang BBS02B mid-drive. The additional torque these electric assist motors put on the standard bicycle parts is enormous and clearly more than they are designed for. Even the many torque washers aren't up for the task.

My CS-RK3 has HNM423 serrated locknuts on the inside of the "vertical" dropouts and HMW534(HMW518) sintered 9.5mm single tab anti-rotation washers on the outside. The forward/reverse torque eventually loosens the axle nut a smidge on each counterclockwise motion, but obviously never retightens a smidge on clockwise motion; so the nuts eventually loosen. I plan to make a torque plate, but I'd like to start with a premade product if it exists.

So, does any type of premade SA metal bracket or torque arm already exist with the exact SA 13/32 flat sided slot in it?

Here you go

Another note!! This is exactly the cable end you want for old window shifters. The later crimped on ends are too fat and tend to not seat properly and get stuck in the hardened plate. Either use a cable with this sort of end or use a piece of 3/32" brass tubing attached with JB weld.