Yes agmetal, much nicer with the curvier forks. I bought a 2nd hand 'modern roadster' last year, a Papillionaire with 8 internal gears. I changed out the stem and handlebars as they were the stand out modern parts, but the lack of decent curve in the forks still bugs me a little. It's a great ride though. What kind of handlebars are on the ANT roadster?

While we're on cables - when I set up the shifter on the DL-1, I was stuck for something to crimp on one end of the cable. I used the metal tip from a ball point 'gel' pen - they fit the cable really well. I'll have to buy some proper swages for the next cable I do.

I picked up a couple of parts for the DL-1 - a 46 tooth herons crank, as the non-raleigh crank I was using had started rubbing against the bottom bracket cup. And at the local tip shop a modern Sturmey Archer XLRD5 for $10. The gears are seized, but the 90mm drum brake component will hopefully help the DL-1's front hub to stop me better :)

It started off with a Dutch-style handlebar from Virtue (visible in the "before" picture), but I recently replaced it with a VO Montmartre bar. I'd planned to use the VO bar originally, but had thought that it wouldn't fit both the brake lever and grip, and didn't realize until recently that there was actually space. The Virtue handlebar is about 10cm wider than the VO one, and the grip areas are angled outward a bit more, and I wanted the narrow width and nearly-parallel grips of the Montmartre bar, because that's more similar to the '37 Raleigh that the build is based on.

Had to share this.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1961-Raleig....c100338.m3726

Attachment 592488

Advertised as a 1948 amazingly sold as a 1984 but I see a 1960 year model?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-Vintag....c100338.m3726

Attachment 592498

Beautiful example. I'd be afraid to take it out of the house...

I love that Superbe!! The stepthrough could be 48. Early 50s at the latest. The lug shape, large Made In England transfer, button oiler in the BB, the patent stem , are all pre54. I don't think the transfers look like the sports tourist in the 1948 catalog, but those things aren't certain.

Here's the womans equivalent in a Sports for a mere $250 cdn. A bargoon in comparison.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-cruiser-comm...ationFlag=true

That's a nice bike and a fair price.
Attachment 592538

Is that a "Glider" decal on the downtube? It is a very nice bike and the new tires look good and add to the value.

Good catch. Yes it's the Eatons Glider rebranded Raleigh. New tires, not originals, still adds value.

Just needs a Christmas Tree beside it.:love:

Nice couple on the local CL. Too bad the seats are gone. Someone probably bought the original leather saddles, leaving this.

https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...428600078.html

Matching Mens & Womens Raleigh Sport 3 Speeds - $150 (Chester)

https://images.craigslist.org/00p0p_...Ef_600x450.jpg

condition: excellent
make / manufacturer: Raleigh
model name / number: Sports 3 speeds

Great winter rehab project, these vintage Raleighs are in excellent condition. The original seats are gone but I have a pair of very comfortable cruiser saddles for them. Very little effort would make this a great pair of commuter 3-speeds for any couple ! Call or text show contact info
for more info.

Since they have already been parted out (seats), I'd buy the pumps. I just don't need any more bikes.

I keep looking for a 23" green Sports in decent condition over here (Northern CA) with no luck. This is exactly what I want and at a great price!

Here is a 64 Royal Scot that I cleaned up for my daughter. (I had put together a nice Motobecane Grand Touring with North Road bars etc. but she really wanted a black 3-speed.)
The original housings cleaned up fine. I didn't touch the cables as I kept everything attached to the handle bars. The only non originals are tires, saddle, maybe the grips, and the nut and bolt on the stem clamp. Crazy nice bike for 35 bucks. All it needs is a rear reflector and a light to fit that bracket.

That is a nice one. I have seen reflectors on the auction website that may fit. I think they came from Thailand.

I have a Royal Scot. Hub date 64. These didn't get the fancy reflectors with the rubber case. It's just a regular 2 1/2" plain reflector.

Attachment 592605

1) What would you use to remove the rust?
I do have oxalic cystals, but will that eat the paint?

2) How would you re-paint the fenders?

https://sj9gwa.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://sj91yg.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://sjprsw.ch.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Very nice bike and a good story. I often fix up ladies' bikes and then find a deserving recipient.

A similar pair here in Toronto (one CCM) for $350.00 CDN.
I think a lot of couples back then decided to get in shape together and bought these bikes as pairs. I suspect that most saw little use.
I bought my wife a nice ladies Superbe to match mine. She rode it to the first Toronto Vintage Bicycle Show and promptly put a for sale sign on it....
Attachment 592616

Attachment 592617

Lot's of info available on OA on this forum

Paint it as best you can? ;)

That men's bike looks like a 21" but the ladies' looks like a 23". I have 23s in each and that men's looks like a smaller frame than the one I have.

Question is the 2 1960 bikes i have the Sturmey Archer spoke drop type rims like the others but the spoke area is a satin finish around the center not polished chrome. I tried to look up this but no avail. whats up with that. Not complaining just wonder why? They are very nice.

Another ? The DL22L has 3.75 in. pedal width and the DL22 has 4.0 in. wide rubber blocks on the pedal. This poses a problem if salvaging parts. I actually could tell because the step through rode so well but was pinching my shoes with the raised wings that trap the shoe. I just noticed this as the bikes hang there and a tape measure nearby. Narrow shoes are for driving a car.

This is how I would handle this fender, just my opinion. I would smooth out the rust on the underside by sanding or wire brush on a drill. Not down to bare steel, just enough to knock off loose rust then brush in a coat of black Rustoleum. If any areas, like the very end looks thin, I would reinforce it with some JB Weld before painting. Personally, for the top surface, I would just give it a coat of wax and leave it at that. I've found that if you wax a bike occasionally and keep it in a reasonably dry place, any rust will stabilize and not get any worse. But if I do decide to patch a painted primary surface, I'll very carefully smooth (somewhat) the rust and paint it over with an artists brush. I use the gloss black because it's easier to remove gloss than add it. The patched spot will stand out because the gloss won't match the rest of the paint, so after a week of drying, I'll use a polishing compound on the whole fender to blend in the patch. Generally, if the gloss of the repair matches the rest of the fender, it will still be noticeable, but it won't jump out at you.