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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295011)
I am puzzled about one thing. Height at the top of the seat tube is the same as on my Raleigh Sports step-thru (21 inches from BB to top). But at the front, there is a 2-inch difference in the length of the head tubes, which puts the Rudge MUCH lower at the front (I mean the top of the head tube) than the step thru Sports. I did not expect this. |
Originally Posted by agmetal
(Post 20295023)
The same is true of my 1952 diamond frame and 1966 step-through. I hadn't really noticed it until putting the two next to each other recently (neither bike sees much use), but it's quite noticeable with them side-by-side!
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I think the women's frames taller headtube gives the top/downtube(s) enough separation to maintain adequate structural integrity.
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Originally Posted by clubman
(Post 20295126)
I think the women's frames taller headtube gives the top/downtube(s) enough separation to maintain adequate structural integrity.
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1 Attachment(s)
One more photo.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295011)
This bike is fine. So much for repainting—that’s over. It lacks the hand chainring, but has the old style brake cables and an oil port in the BB. Plus the head tube badge and frame decals, wow. The hub says ’63. Rims? Eh, that’s not superficial rust, I don’t think. Other chrome is darn good. The indicator chain was broken, you’ll see that in the snaps, so I put in a new one and it shifts nicely. Need to pull the left side crank out; it nudges the left chainstay. The B72, well, with plenty of foam crammed underneath, it might give me a little time.
I am puzzled about one thing. Height at the top of the seat tube is the same as on my Raleigh Sports step-thru (21 inches from BB to top). But at the front, there is a 2-inch difference in the length of the head tubes, which puts the Rudge MUCH lower at the front (I mean the top of the head tube) than the step thru Sports. I did not expect this. Attachment 608091 Or, a later style right side up faceplate with no embossing, just printed on graphics and a ball and keyhole style ferrule. The change happened around 62-63. I really like this bike. Always been especially fond of Rudges. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20295156)
Nice! You got a good one. I suspect the left side crank is bent. Easy fix. The paint, transfers and chrome look really good. I love bikes like this. Needs some work, but has tons of potential. For me, it's fun to pick away at the things that need fixing. Looks like somebody changed the shifter at some point.
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295011)
This bike is fine. So much for repainting—that’s over. It lacks the hand chainring, but has the old style brake cables and an oil port in the BB. Plus the head tube badge and frame decals, wow. The hub says ’63. Rims? Eh, that’s not superficial rust, I don’t think. Other chrome is darn good. The indicator chain was broken, you’ll see that in the snaps, so I put in a new one and it shifts nicely. Need to pull the left side crank out; it nudges the left chainstay. The B72, well, with plenty of foam crammed underneath, it might give me a little time.
I am puzzled about one thing. Height at the top of the seat tube is the same as on my Raleigh Sports step-thru (21 inches from BB to top). But at the front, there is a 2-inch difference in the length of the head tubes, which puts the Rudge MUCH lower at the front (I mean the top of the head tube) than the step thru Sports. I did not expect this. |
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295152)
That makes sense, but I will be looking at a new tall stem, or one of those extender tubes (not out of the question).
Niagara does sell long stems that are style appropriate and "north" style bars, both in 25.4, and they're not expensive. Too bad if you replace as the ones on the Rudge look to be in good shape. |
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295196)
I'll straighten the crank, no problem. God knows how many times they needed pulling out on my bike when I was a kid. I was wondering about that shifter.... The grips don't match, so, no surprise. But the paint! It is so good! Now I've got it, how do I deal with those old-style brake wires if they need replacing? Just screw something to the end of the new wire to anchor it in the caliper?
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Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20294861)
Marvelous paintings.
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Originally Posted by desconhecido
(Post 20295395)
There were extra long stems, but I think they were rare. Problem with replacing with a repro is bar diameter. The old steel bars were small diameter -- about 23mm, as I recall.
Niagara does sell long stems that are style appropriate and "north" style bars, both in 25.4, and they're not expensive. Too bad if you replace as the ones on the Rudge look to be in good shape. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20295398)
I hope you don't need to change them. I never do unless they're frayed. I have seen people use cable knarps, but the cleanest method is to silver braze a piece of steel that fits the caliper onto a new cable end. Another method to swap out the calipers for later Raleigh calipers that use a pinch bolt.
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3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295011)
This bike is fine. So much for repainting—that’s over. It lacks the hand chainring, but has the old style brake cables and an oil port in the BB. Plus the head tube badge and frame decals, wow. The hub says ’63. Rims? Eh, that’s not superficial rust, I don’t think. Other chrome is darn good. The indicator chain was broken, you’ll see that in the snaps, so I put in a new one and it shifts nicely. Need to pull the left side crank out; it nudges the left chainstay. The B72, well, with plenty of foam crammed underneath, it might give me a little time.
I am puzzled about one thing. Height at the top of the seat tube is the same as on my Raleigh Sports step-thru (21 inches from BB to top). But at the front, there is a 2-inch difference in the length of the head tubes, which puts the Rudge MUCH lower at the front (I mean the top of the head tube) than the step thru Sports. I did not expect this. Re Brakes Those cables (NOS) are pretty hard to find these days and expensive. I generally replace the calipers with second generation ones that accept a regular cable. BC's advice to build custom cables is another option. Attachment 608154 Paint and decals all look good. You can try cleaning the rims with tin foil and water but I suspect some of that rust will remain. Keep your eye out for discarded rims outside bike shops etc. These projects can be a "Slow Burn". I found a rounded crank arm last week and installed on a project I had "finished" 2 years ago. Keep the photos coming and try to document your progress. Attachment 608152 Amongst the parts included with this basket case was a rounded crank that made it's way over to this bike. Attachment 608153 |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by paulb_in_bkln
(Post 20295652)
It's reassuring to know that solutions are available even if there isn't a problem. I've got to look up "knarp." Where the heck does that word come from? Biggest concern right now is those rims.
Attachment 608158 |
Looks like they're breaking up the set that was advertised for $150.
https://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/...565325045.html Vintage Ladies Raleigh City Bike - $50 (Chester, Va) https://images.craigslist.org/01717_...pj_600x450.jpg East Hundred Road condition: good make / manufacturer: Raleigh model name / number: Sports 3 speed size / dimensions: 54cm Ladies Raleigh Sports 3 speed, very good condition but will need tires for daily use. Frame measures 54cm and seat and grips are included. Call or text show contact info for more info. |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 20295672)
These projects can be a "Slow Burn". I found a rounded crank arm last week and installed on a project I had "finished" 2 years ago. |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20295933)
Yes!! That's part of the fun. I like this Rudge a lot. To me it's very much worth long term touch ups. I would have fun hunting down better rims, pinch bolt brakes if it needed new cables and a period correct shifter. Someday I'd get it a new Brooks B66 and a Carradice bag:love: At first, I think I would just do the normal servicing, clean and touch up rusty spots on the paint, go over the paint with polishing compound and wax and ride it for the summer.
Get it serviced and on the road and then work on the upgrades/improvements etc. as time permits. |
+1 on the tin foil for the chrome - most of not all of that surface rust will be gone with a little elbow grease. I use WD40 as a bit of a lune when I do the foil trick.
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The '63 Rudge above is almost identical to the one I had when I was a college student in the 80s - only mine had a front dynohub. It was a wonderful bike and is one of exactly two bikes I genuinely wish I had hung onto. I suspect you will find it to have a special ride quality that I somehow never quite got out of the allegedly identical Raleighs. Maybe it was all in my head.
Beautiful bike, btw. |
Originally Posted by johnnyspaghetti
(Post 20295201)
Is this a SA product?
https://images.craigslist.org/00T0T_...Cz_600x450.jpg https://lacrosse.craigslist.org/bik/...544884273.html |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 20295398)
I hope you don't need to change them. I never do unless they're frayed. I have seen people use cable knarps, but the cleanest method is to silver braze a piece of steel that fits the caliper onto a new cable end. Another method to swap out the calipers for later Raleigh calipers that use a pinch bolt.
Another way to make a custom cable is to crimp a spoke nipple onto the end of the cable. You need all the correct Raleigh small parts from an old brake cable, as well as new housing, cable, and a spoke nipple. If you use a proper crimper tool, the spoke nipple is virtually impossible to remove. For a crimper, I especially like one made by HPK for Bell Systems, by the thousands, back in the days of land line telephones; available on ebay for $10-$20. If you get it in the wrong place, you need to cut it off and try again. |
All great suggestions. Thank you all. I hadn't thought of using WD40 with the aluminum foil. This bike is much cooler than what I anticipated. I keep the Sports step thru mechanically perfect because I ride it so much, but looks-wise it's kind of a beater. That won't fly with this Rudge. First thing is straighten the crank so I can spend time on it. It just nudges the chainstay and I want to avoid making a spot in the paint.
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Originally Posted by rhm
(Post 20296296)
I don't think so. I suspect the shifter shown is made in England, but not by Sturmey Archer. Brampton made shifters that looked a lot like that --same curve to the trigger, anyway. More than a couple other English companies made Sturmey Archer hubs under license; BSA, Brampton, and Hercules come to mind, and I may be missing something.
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