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Another Mystery Raleigh
10 Attachment(s)
Here is the bike I got at the same time as the Ladies Sport Tourist. It has the same "AW" hub with no date (appears to be the 1941/42 model); but different fenders, gearcase "window" oriented to top vice front, no "fishtail" cutouts on the head tube lugs, bolt-on seatstays, quadrant shifter, and standard front hub. The pedals and baskets/rack are definitely not original. Serial # AD99185 running parallel to the seat tube on the seat lug. No idea as to the model/year, nor originality of existing components. The right crank has about a 3-4 mm "notch"; either intentionally made to avoid contact with gearcase or worn in from continued contact with same (maybe not from this gearcase as there is not excessive wear to the case itself). Hope the photos help; I'm still trying to find my good camera!
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Re: reusing a chain link's pin- If the chain is a modern 3/32"/der one then most every current chain has their pins peened over on their ends to better retain the side plates from prying off during the harsh shifting forces that ramps/lift pins/shift gates produce. These pins will punch a larger hole in the side plate when punched out, or almost all the way out like was the practice prior to peened pins. If the chain is a non peened pin one then great. Treat it like chains of old, which it is by design, and re press in that pin. Most all 1/8" chains that I see are not peened on their pin ends. I did this very type of conversion about 40 years ago and that bike has been under a few different riders over the years with no problems. Andy (who someday will get back that Raleigh Twenty [not a DL-20] with it's FW hub and the two SA cogs for an 8 speed)
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart
(Post 21123904)
Re: reusing a chain link's pin- If the chain is a modern 3/32"/der one then most every current chain has their pins peened over on their ends to better retain the side plates from prying off during the harsh shifting forces that ramps/lift pins/shift gates produce. These pins will punch a larger hole in the side plate when punched out, or almost all the way out like was the practice prior to peened pins. If the chain is a non peened pin one then great. Treat it like chains of old, which it is by design, and re press in that pin. Most all 1/8" chains that I see are not peened on their pin ends. I did this very type of conversion about 40 years ago and that bike has been under a few different riders over the years with no problems. Andy (who someday will get back that Raleigh Twenty [not a DL-20] with it's FW hub and the two SA cogs for an 8 speed)
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Originally Posted by HPL
(Post 21123894)
Here is the bike I got at the same time as the Ladies Sport Tourist. It has the same "AW" hub with no date (appears to be the 1941/42 model); but different fenders, gearcase "window" oriented to top vice front, no "fishtail" cutouts on the head tube lugs, bolt-on seatstays, quadrant shifter, and standard front hub. The pedals and baskets/rack are definitely not original. Serial # AD99185 running parallel to the seat tube on the seat lug. No idea as to the model/year, nor originality of existing components. The right crank has about a 3-4 mm "notch"; either intentionally made to avoid contact with gearcase or worn in from continued contact with same (maybe not from this gearcase as there is not excessive wear to the case itself). Hope the photos help; I'm still trying to find my good camera!
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...dc809fea84.jpg |
4 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21123981)
This appears to be similar to a Dawn Tourist but a different head tube lug shape. Maybe an older model? Hard to say.
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This one is a mystery to me. Every Raleigh I've seen has shaped head tube lugs. This does have the Raleigh style rod brake linkage piece that pivots on both sides of the down tube. Most other manufacturers used a single arm on one side. It looks slightly different than the linkage piece on my Raleigh, but that might just be the angle of the photo. That flip top oil port on the bottom bracket was used on Raleighs from the mid 50s to around 1960.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...1ee87eb30c.jpg |
Picked up a 1948 Royal Enfield at the ABCE this weekend. Photos soon...
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Originally Posted by Salubrious
(Post 21124794)
Picked up a 1948 Royal Enfield at the ABCE this weekend. Photos soon...
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Those tubular tires were a pain in the rear to install but they paid off for the Gravity Race.
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Re: Post 21229 "1950 Superbe Update"
Since I'm a "Newbie" I cannot actually link to the original post, hence the reference above. Hi, Beautiful job on the bike! Re: the shifting issue: if the Indicator rod is set correctly in "normal" N, perhaps your shift cable length is too long. Sturmey Archer normally specified a 17-1/2" outer with a 21-1/2" outer available for special conditions. To quote from the '50's/60's service manual: " the outer cable should allow full movement of the handlebars but otherwise should be kept as short as possible, as it tends to compress in lower gears and any length over 21-1/2 inches may affect the gear adjustment adversely". Visually, this isn't intuitive obvious, so my experience is that you cut the outer cable to the specified length and adjust the fulcrum and shifters to end-up with a "best fit/relatively smooth" cable run. |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21124190)
This one is a mystery to me. Every Raleigh I've seen has shaped head tube lugs. This does have the Raleigh style rod brake linkage piece that pivots on both sides oe f the down tube. Most other manufacturers used a single arm on one side. It looks slightly different than the linkage piece on my Raleigh, but that might just be the angle of the photo. That flip top oil port on the bottom bracket was used on Raleighs from the mid 50s to around 1960.
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Originally Posted by littlevikingca
(Post 21125131)
Re: Post 21229 "1950 Superbe Update"
Since I'm a "Newbie" I cannot actually link to the original post, hence the reference above. |
Thanks Clubman,
I'll add the link and share some photos after my 10 posts. Cheers, Dave |
Originally Posted by littlevikingca
(Post 21125131)
Re: Post 21229 "1950 Superbe Update"
Since I'm a "Newbie" I cannot actually link to the original post, hence the reference. |
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35e3ba61c7.jpg
Put this Humber Sports back to together, 70'? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d1c53ebf4b.jpg I'm guessing the bracket is for accessories? |
Hi,
Yes, that is the mount for the headlamp. Suitable head lights will have a bracket that slips over the bracket and can be clamped in place to set the "tilt". It also acts as a "non-rotational" washer for the headset. It has a small tab that engages with a vertical slot in the steerer tube that prevents the locknut from rotating the upper race while tightening. Cheers, Dave K |
FW Derailleur Drive Chain
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2a6bb41811.jpg
This is a Crimson Star on a 1903 Sunbeam 9
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21123666)
Six Speed Conversion Sh*t Show
What I thought would be a simple project has been somewhat frustrating but there is a light at the end of the tunnel.... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ef5c57c039.jpg I set the bike up yesterday and bought a 3/32" 10 speed chain assuming the 1/2" pitch would be compatible. It wasn't. It binds on the chain ring and refused to engage the smaller cog.. I'd had enough and let it be. Today I added a couple of washers to the derailleur rollers to expand the width to accept a standard 1/8" chain. All seemed good. Until I installed the master link which now catches on the derailleur cage https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...32a2e50b7d.jpg I'm not dissuaded. The 3/32" chain was only $15.00 and the 1/8" chain was cobbled together from a couple I had lying around. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...479346e839.jpg Tomorrow's another day...... Resilion made these uncaged derailleurs to accommodate the wider links. This is a seven speed Crimson Star. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...19bff41ccf.jpg This one bolts onto the chainstay rather than on a hanger secured by the axle nut. |
Originally Posted by curbtender
(Post 21125525)
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...35e3ba61c7.jpg
Put this Humber Sports back to together, 70'? https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d1c53ebf4b.jpg I'm guessing the bracket is for accessories? |
Originally Posted by littlevikingca
(Post 21125368)
Thanks Clubman,
I'll add the link and share some photos after my 10 posts. Cheers, Dave |
Originally Posted by Johno59
(Post 21125717)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2a6bb41811.jpg
This is a Crimson Star on a 1903 Sunbeam 9 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eadf7b16c.jpeg Resilion made these uncaged derailleurs to accommodate the wider links. This is a seven speed Crimson Star. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...19bff41ccf.jpg This one bolts onto the chainstay rather than on a hanger secured by the axle nut. I'll press on with my project and see if I even like it. |
Originally Posted by Johno59
(Post 21125717)
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...2a6bb41811.jpg
This is a Crimson Star on a 1903 Sunbeam 9 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...eadf7b16c.jpeg Resilion made these uncaged derailleurs to accommodate the wider links. This is a seven speed Crimson Star. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...19bff41ccf.jpg This one bolts onto the chainstay rather than on a hanger secured by the axle nut. Your use of lighting and a small aperture for depth-of-field turns a technical photograph into a work of art. Very nice! . |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21125781)
Nice one. Could be 1970, but could also go back to the late 60s. Check the hub date stamp. It's really nice that it has the traditional Humber chainwheel. One of my favorites. Raleigh gave up on using the stylized brand specific chainrings on their acquired brands and started using their generic chainring around that time.
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As Homer Simpson said:
"Never Try...." https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7139a46927.jpg The double cog project is on an indefinite hiatus.. I tried to take it for a spin down the alley The derailluer travelled too far and broke 3 spokes and popped the cogs off the hub as well. The bike has now been restored to it's natural state. I prefer 3 speeds anyway. I even put the shifter on it! The cool one. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...afd2e217f1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a139d29651.jpg On the plus side, tomorrow, I'm delivering the Villager 3 speed project bike to a deserving friend in Hamilton, https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...986c479c35.jpg and with the right price coming home with a 1955 Humber 3 speed. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...38f1892750.jpg |
Originally Posted by gster
(Post 21126714)
As Homer Simpson said:
"Never Try...." https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...7139a46927.jpg The double cog project is on an indefinite hiatus.. I tried to take it for a spin down the alley The derailluer travelled too far and broke 3 spokes and popped the cogs off the hub as well. The bike has now been restored to it's natural state. I prefer 3 speeds anyway. I even put the shifter on it! The cool one. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...afd2e217f1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a139d29651.jpg On the plus side, tomorrow, I'm delivering the Villager 3 speed project bike to a deserving friend in Hamilton, https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...986c479c35.jpg and with the right price coming home with a 1955 Humber 3 speed. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...38f1892750.jpg |
Originally Posted by BigChief
(Post 21126793)
Still, some valuable research done here. If you'd care to explain what you think went wrong and why, I'd like to hear. I like experimental projects.
Details to follow. |
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