A very pleasant day here in Toronto and a perfect day for a fall ride.

This bike is a true Bitsa in every sense (Bits of this and bits of that).

It’s a Raleigh built Glider 5 speed frame with a ’71 3 speed hub. The hub internals are from a 1961.

The trigger is mid ’60’s and the rest of the parts… who knows.
I’m calling it a Semi Scorcher because the handle bars are in the upright position rather than being inverted.
Saddle is a used Brooks B66 and the pedals are a pair of brand new MKS 3000R (reflector) from Curbside Cycle.
The bike is a pleasure to ride and without any fenders or racks, rattle free as well as being somewhat lighter.
The only cosmetic issue to address are the mis-matched crank arms. The drive side is the rounded type while the other is squared. Something to do in the spring….
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@browngw, I'm sure @gster and @BigChief are right. I suggest you get new pawl springs even before you open the hub. I don't know where to get them in Canada, but Harris Cyclery in Massachusetts is where I would go here in the US.

Urbane Cycle in Toronto carries them and if you scroll back several pages Big Chief shows how to make your own from guitar strings!

I did see that explanation, but I would probably go crazy trying that. Just installing pawl springs is annoying enough.

Out this early evening for a coffee stop. Up to #8 on pedal tried to find a knee friendly set.

Sweet Daddy Siki!!!

We've got some hot looking scorchers going here! Well, technically I suppose gster is correct in calling ours semi-scorchers with our upright northroads. I have a kickstand on mine also. But still, the spirit is alive!

This 1970-72? looks good in the boston area listed at $40 guys.

https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/bo...323706834.html

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Probably. My coffee 23" '74 has the self-adjusting brake levers.

I like this one. Hard to see in the photo, but I think this color may be burgundy. I'd go for this one if I was closer. Nice bike. Pre 73 I think. Pretty sure I see a fender hanger under the rear brake. They changed to through tabs like the front fender by 73.

I think that this bike really stands out. A Scorcher needs that extended reach stem to be complete.
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Good work 3speedslow!

does anyone want me to get it and hold it for them?

Yes.....crazy.

Thanks, that's very kind of you to offer, but no. This time of year I'm way too busy to travel anywhere. I'm lucky if I have time to squeeze in my short bike rides. Weather was perfect yesterday. It took all of my effort to turn around and come back for chores.
Keep those pictures coming. I love that project you're working on.
I have to edit this. If I find a 23" pre 55 gents in bad enough condition, they'll have to get along without me while I go get it. Everybody has their limit!

I don't think this is quite what you had in mind, but . . .

Not only the fender, but mine has top tube cable stops and exposed brake cable run while this one looks like it has clips and housing all the way, plus mine is 36F/36R while this one looks like 36F/40R.

1956 Raleigh Sports
 

This 1956 Raleigh Sports came up on Portland Craigslist. Not a bad price, in good shape, and Dynohub! :love:
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...354166375.html
Somebody get this!

https://images.craigslist.org/00V0V_...QH_600x450.jpg
1956 Raleigh women's Sport - $240 (Hillsdale)
1956 Raleigh Sport in great condition. Almost all original. 21"

Thanks @gster

I use a kickstand, full disclosure!

My Raleigh is a 73 and uses a wrap around mudguard attachment.

Trying another pedal set so I can add miles to my trips without hurting the knee

Wow! thanks. That is what I'm looking for. Funny thing. I just bought an early stem, brake levers and bars that turned out to be much older than I thought. Must be in the stars. You wouldn't happen to know if that rear dropout is correct for that period would you? I'm not as familiar with pre war Raleighs as I should be if I'm to do a project like this.
edit: had to go back to the 1935 catalog to find it. This frame requires different fenders. They would be just about impossible to find.

Yeah, doing a faithful recreation of a 1935 bike would be challenging. I had this one built up with mostly 70s Sports components, including fenders, an EA1 wheelset w/ a rear coaster brake (1980s Araya rims came in this size for some ill-fated Japanese venture), and Soma faux Lauterwasser bars:

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8414/...bca574c4_c.jpg

I also created some faux-1930s Sports fenders for one of the cheap-o BF competitions:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...f04fffbd_c.jpg

This is what I was trying to achieve with that build (from the 1936 catalog):

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/...1c5ac0c3_c.jpg

That rear reflector is the challenge!

I think you've achieved your goal with the top bike.
Nice lines.

The crank and pedals are a bit of a give away.

Well there is a reason to take apart and rebuild a 68 year old SA Hub. Took the whole thing apart, soaked all the components over night, cleaned and reassembled today. That is to say wanted to reassemble today. Easy project and not as hard as it looks, but, one of the planet pinions has a broken tooth. So now a need a new one. Do I look for one or buy four? And I need an authentic 1949ish indicator 5 3/4 axle. Where do you think I might get that? I have various kinds of auto and boat grease. I even have 1950's grease. What do yous guys use in your hub rebuilds? Attachment 585607

I know that you love these bike. a 1930's Sports on craigslist
https://images.craigslist.org/00505_...K_1200x900.jpg

I've been using marine grease on the wheel bearings and just a light coating of whatever automotive oil I have on hand for everything else. My oldest hub is a Jan 1955. Splined driver type. It uses the same 5 3/4" axle as all my other Raleigh Sports type bikes.

@plympton, any grease is fine. Really.

Another pre war Raleigh. Interesting bike. I don't have the knowledge to do these bikes justice. But I feel the tide changing. My early 50s junker will show up any time now.

Raleigh Brake Cables
 

Has anyone come up with an elegant fix for adapting new brake cables to work with the old style calipers?
I've seen some rough solutions with a small nut and bolt but nothing that looks clean.
Those proprietary NOS cables are in short supply and often very expensive.
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I've been swapping out the old calipers for the newer versions but would like to maintain originality where possible.

I think I've answered my own question with these things...
Cable Knarps.
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Sometimes, especially on newer cables, the ends are cast onto the cable, but sometimes they are steel and brazed on. If you have a bad frayed cable like this you have nothing to loose by heating the end with a torch and seeing if it melts or can be pulled off the cable. So even if you use a knarp, hang on to the old cable since you may be able to silver braze it someday if you're up to going through the extra trouble.