Very nice
 

The.leather seat really make these bikes. The switch to vinyl really killed Raleigh bikes. Brooks still refuses to replace the leather and a new one doubles the price of these old bikes. People buy them for the seat and bin the bike.

King of the Road
 

I spotted a ping pong bell. See if you can get a Ding Dong King of the Road bell. They are fab and the kids love the sound they make.

Not your typical English 3-speed but definitely qualifies. $250 in NY.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...20403731163423

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...0A&oe=6513138A

What is that protector over the rear shifter chain? I don't think I've seen one like that before.

I got this the other day in a trade deal for an old balloon tire frame. I figured I was never going to do anything with an old rusty frame and a rideable bike is of more use to me than a bare frame which I had no correct parts for.
I'm guessing early 60's vintage, but its hard to tell since the rear hub is a Perry coaster brake not an AW.
Its got the oil port though on the bottom bracket and a brass headbadge on both the head tube and rear fender.
Its not much of a pic but it was dark out when I snapped this in the back corner of the garage.
Both tires say Dunlop made in England on them, so those are likely original. The bike rides and stops fine, although a bit small for me.
The paint is actually pretty decent, about 90% or so and both rims are dead true. The old, hard, John Bull brakes leave a bit to be desired though. They sort of have that vintage anti lock brake feel, giving the slight impression of slowing down when the need arises. They get better though with some heat and a few downhill grinding attempts to stop usually ending with some foot dragging and some wishing for a few more feet of road.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d5920a57a2.jpg

missingspoke : you *know* we’re gonna need more pictures. I don’t get to see many Dunelts.

I have one bike with a Perry B100 coaster on it. Even with a new brake “pad” it stops as well as you describe! Problem with coasters is that if you try to do a Fred Flintstone with your feet you lose what little braking you had. 😎

The rear mudguard badge and torpedo grips places it around 1960 imo. The fork crown looks like Birmingham but the rest of it could be Raleigh. We've seen a few of these Dunelts that used old Birmingham inventory (24 tpi threads/oil ports) even after Raleigh took them over circa '60. Raleigh subsequently changed the fork crown to the 'D' thimble crowns and 26 tpi threads. More pics would be nice if you get a chance. I had a tweaked Dunelt with a '59 AW that had a Birmingham rear badge and a Nottingham front badge.

Rawland Nordivinden - $500 (Johnson creek)
 

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/...664544339.html
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...a9608c5826.jpg

With the exception of the mudguards, the Clubman is done.
Here's a few photos of the bike out in the alley. The first 7 images in this folder are of the completed bike.

http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/

It looks like I knocked the brake housing clips a bit when moving the bike in and out of the house. I need to find one that really clamps to keep the housing against the top tube up by the stem.
It rides nicely, from the few laps I did up and down our alley. The weather is awful, so I'm not taking my "Sunday driver bike" out in it. It's definitely the lightest bike I own and quite responsive. I might have a chance to get out for a bit of a ride on Wednesday. I'm still waiting on a 19 tooth fixed cog. I set the chain length to the maximum amount of rearward axle location I could, so 16 teeth on the dual cog freewheel, which turns out to be perfect to locate the axle in the middle of the dropout for the 20 tooth cog.
In the photos, the front wheel is attached with the old French wingnuts, but I'm going to replace those with a set of Carlton track nuts. I just like the look of the wingnuts for photos, but don't want to rely upon them to keep the wheel in the dropout.
The Barelli pedals will be getting a set of GB stainless cages with white Christophe leather straps.
Later in the week, I may spray paint my mudguards white and the bike will be really done, ready for a nice long fall ride.

That's Sturmey's response to the Shimano all-enclosed 'click box' 3-speed shift module. It just covers the exposed cable/indicator. They've been offering that option for, oh, I dunno, a decade and a half or so?

PhilFo : maybe just me but I get a “server cannot be contacted” message for your photo link.

As to the wing nut decision, have you had a bad experience with them or just being cautious? I have several bikes with them and have not yet had an issue, though I am by no means a hard rider.

Mark,
These are all aluminum wing nuts and I'd just be more comfortable with something made of steel that has a little more strength.
I just checked the host and the server is working.
Give this link a try:
http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/

Must be me as I still get the same error. Anyway looking forward to seeing the pictures from another device.

I’m getting that error, too, with both links.

I don’t know what is happening but it seems like BF is somehow breaking the link.

Ah, my browser wants to add a https to the start of the link, but I edited it to http and it worked. I grabbed a full profile pic:

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...f3dc85355a.jpg

Nlerner, thanks for the forensics and posting the pic!

So I finished putting the fat tubulars on my silver Mondonico and tuning the Campy 3 x 10, adjusting the saddle on my other Mondonico, opening the box on my newly repainted Woodrup Giro Touring and ogling the new paint!

More to the point I now have time to finish the front hub and wheel on my 1952 Rudge Aero Special. I think this hub has the special locknut setup where you can adjust the bearing play on the bike because the bearing/locknet on one side are firmly locked together, and the other are adjustable with a thin wrench. But, I have lost the secret on which side of the bike has the locked bearing and which one has the adjustable one. I know it's important because I don't want the cone to spontaneously seize up on me while I'm 10 minutes from arriving home after pedaling Lands' End to John O'Groats, (In my case this also involves pedaling the Atlantic Ocean), but ... does anyone know how the handedness of these front hubs (Raleigh Industries, original to this 1952 Rudge from Nottingham, all-steel, chromed, 32 spokes to match the 40 sp Sturmey rear hub, and 84 mm OLD!) has to be arranged in order for the magic bearing to work correctly? Sloan, Zinn, and Calvin Jones do not cover it, unfortunately.

Help?

1958 Raleigh Sports out for a ride a couple evenings ago.

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...921_164531.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...921_164545.jpg

PhilFo : nice to finally see the bike - beautiful. I do have to check though - stem and seatpost insertion depth are ok, right?

Mark, the seatpost is an American Classic MTB post, about 350mm, the stem is a cursive script Titan chrome unit (no date code) with an expander plug and the headset collar securing it. I should put it down about half an inch, but there is at least 2” below the top of the steerer tube. This week it will be getting a 19 tooth track cog and I’ll have to really start working. As it is a cottered crankset, I’ll be going easy on the back pressure, besides, I have brakes! I can’t wait to get out on the Schuylkill path and take a ride to Valley Forge on this.
Thanks for the praise!

Hey, John, thanks a bunch! So as the front wheel spins, any torque transferred to the cone tends to tighten the cone against whatever locks it. In the RJ flick it is the fork blade bearing against the wheel nut. In the modern Raleigh hub he shows, the cone is locked against a lockwasher, a locknut, the dropout and finally a wheel nut, a big wingnut in the case of this bike.

Next, my axle, which I think is OEM (so it's from 1952), has a slot cut across the screw treads and one of the lockwashers has a little tab which fits the slot. The other side has a lockwasher which does not have a tab. Which side of the hub do the slotted axle and washer go on? My first guess is we want the slotted one to go where we do not want looseing torque to the cone to loosen the bearing locknut and then perhaps the wheel nut.

I have a couple of bikes that have slotted front axles. I have them on the none drive side of the bike. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

Looks pretty clean.

RESTORED VINTAGE 1970 RANGER $225 St. Charles, IL

Facebook IL Ranger

Unusual hard to find RANGER 3 speed touring bike, made in England by Phillips Cycles LTD, sold in Chicago. Fresh 2023 restoration with new Duro whitewall tires/tubes, brake pads. Completely disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. Paint is original with some wear per photos. Buffed out and waxed. Rims in great condition and true. All spokes adjusted. Underside of seat repainted. Tested for 15 miles. Nice vintage smooth touring bike. Works through all 3 gears with no issues. Interesting head badge in great condition. Includes the original all chrome rack in great condition. Feel free to ask questions. More photos available.

https://scontent-ord5-2.xx.fbcdn.net...kg&oe=65172D23
https://scontent-ord5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...eQ&oe=65187A9B
https://scontent-ord5-2.xx.fbcdn.net...hw&oe=65173629

I always liked the rebranded models for some reason. I just picked up a 'Crown' (Roilfast sold) bike that looks almost identical to that Ranger.
I got it from the original owner who gave me a lifetime history on the bike and how he got it when he was 15 in 1964. Its in similar condition. I had to pretty much take it apart to fit it in the rental car I was driving the day I found it. It rode around with me, disassembled, in the trunk wrapped in a couple beach towels for four days while on the road for work. I spotted the bike on CL there and the guy got right back to me, so I made arrangements to see it asap. I was shocked to see how clean it was, even the paint was decent. Hardly any scratches and two perfect rims, just lots of grease and oil. When I got there he had the bike already to test ride. He was only asking $50, but right away said he'd take $40 if it was for my own use.
I took the bike for a quick ride, and handed him the $40. He brought out a small tool box and took the bike apart, wrapping each piece in a towel. He put all the bearings in pill bottles, he bagged the chain in a zip lock bag, and when all done, he set the tool box in the trunk as well, saying that he got it with the bike and it goes with the bike. The tool box is a 1950's Union metal box, with three trays, completely lined with rubber, complete with an assortment of Eldi, SA,, SK, and Park tools. I'll post some pics once I get it back together and all cleaned up. It won't let me post here till I get 10 posts though.

The non-adjustable cone without flats, is snugged against the 'stop' on the axle first. It goes on the drive side of the front wheel. There are no locknuts. The adjustable cone (with flats) goes on the left or non-drive side of the bike. The spinning wheel will never tighten the cone and ruin the hub. I think these so-called locknuts are tabbed washers but they aren't really necessary imo. Always go to the source, even though even Sheldon, was occasionally (rarely) wrong.

Here's a few better photos of the 1951 Rudge Aero Clubman, at our local boneyard.
http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Phi...ycles/Clubman/
As per nlerner's suggestion, click on the link, get to the error page, go to the URL then remove the 's' after https.

It rides really nicely. It may get a real inaugural ride this weekend, riding along with a friend who is going to visit family up near Binghamton, NY. I'll ride along for 20 or so miles then ride back home.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...ec5c057a11.jpg
1972 Malaysian Raleigh Sports with Swytch ebike kit.
I haven't posted here in a few years, but just electrified one of my Raleigh Sports a few days ago. Yesterday I changed out the B17 in the photo for a B66 from one of my other Sports. I am really happy with the conversion so far. I had to file the front fork dropouts to get the hub motor axle to fit. I just realized the battery is not shown in the photo, but it is the newer slim version. I will post a photo with the battery tomorrow. I'm glad this thread is still alive and well.

Tall, nice, well equipped Sports for $85 in RI.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...44014471046821

https://scontent.fric1-1.fna.fbcdn.n...6w&oe=651C62A6