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At risk of stoking the ire of some, I'd like to add a bit about my use of seam sealer in rehabbing old tubulars. I had a set of Clement Futurox tires that were in very nice condition other than the latex in the sidewalls was dry / flaking.....hope this makes sense. I used a soft wire brush to gently clean the loose latex from the sidewall cloth and applied two coast of tent seam sealer to the sidewalls only with an acid brush. I used Barge cement to reattach the rim tape in a few spots where it was loose, then mounted the tires to the rim with Vittoria Mastik. Two years later, the tires look great, the sidewalls remain pliable, and I ride them without concern.
I appreciate that some will not ride or repair old tubulars for a variety of reasons. I have several that I would not invest my time to fix or my skin to ride....'not sure why I'm saving them. Dean |
Originally Posted by HPL
(Post 21314616)
Thanks Robbie,
I had somewhat surmised what you have iterated in reading other posts, but good to have verification. I've not purchased any of the needed supplies (may be something in my Misc. box) and was curious if the tape was the preferred option over glue other than being less messy. Any preference as to brand? I assume the tape would be more expensive, but I have not done any comparative shopping yet, and I doubt my collective has any of either product on hand. Yes, a fairly charmed flat free life; but I seem to do a good job of tearing up rims; and never the "cheap" ones. Thanks again, HPL But you could figure out for yourself how to make rims work. It's not hard. Most bike maintenance is not hard. |
It just occurred to me that wooden tubular rims would make a serendipitous match for a modern road disc wheelset.
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Originally Posted by 63rickert
(Post 21314860)
I use rims that are 50, 60, 70 years old. Half of them came to me free and were badly flatspotted. Or otherwise useless deplorable unredeemable scrap metal. If I tell you how to make rims work everyone on the forum is going to tell you how wrong I am. Tired of talking about it.
But you could figure out for yourself how to make rims work. It's not hard. Most bike maintenance is not hard. I've repaired some steel rims for the old 3 spds, but have yet to try my hand with the alloy rims. |
Originally Posted by HPL
(Post 21314922)
It's not the rim, it's me! I shouldn't be riding on some of the terrain that I encounter on the road bikes while using some of tbe lighter rims that just aren't made to take the abuse. I just forget to change my wheels to a more stout set up for training/touring. I tore up a nice Campy Vento 16 riding the rough back roads in New England near my house. Most of the roads are not paved, just tar sprayed over sand and stones.
I've repaired some steel rims for the old 3 spds, but have yet to try my hand with the alloy rims. |
Originally Posted by HPL
(Post 21314483)
Welcome to BF xbit05!
Folks, for all the riding I've done I have never actually mounted and/or repaired a tubular. I have them on multiple bikes, but being that I swap rides regularly I haven't worn out the tires. Even my clinchers get spread out use from riding many different frames; last tire fix was due to a tire blow out from age; not wear. Never used glue, or needle before. Now I want to use my vintage tubular rims that, like mentioned earlier, are readily available and more than reasonably priced, and would be the more appropriate build for my classic projects ('50s-'80s or so). I hear about tape, glue, sealer, and whatnot; but really have no idea about what is required when utilizing a tubular set up. When I have ridden on them I have always been pleased with the ride, and luckily I have not had any flats because I carried no means of repair other than having a pump onboard. Is the tape a substitute for the glue, or does it act the same as the rim tape/liner for a clincher set up? Do I need both "regular" rim tape for protection and "tubular tape" for mounting (plus glue!)? Right now I'm flipping wheelsets back and forth from other frames due to lack of completed wheels for all bikes; both on present rides and for future builds. I have plenty of rims and new tires w/tubes "sewn up" (not by myself), but not mounted. I assume this has been covered much earlier in this thread, but I figured that with the changing times and materials the means of performing this task may have changed in the past couple of decades. Thanks again for any help; and PLEASE make me feel like an idiot, the learning process will be more ingrained afterwards! this is what was most straight forward video on tubular gluing and mounting Tubular Tire Mounting Cement Gluing Adhesion by Yellow Jersey; Thoughts on a Front Wheel hope this is helpful |
Kelly's Cork Renew seems to work well. I was gifted a NOS pair of Clement Futura sew-ups. It seems to have done the trick (have not yet tried the tires). I probably heard about it on CR.
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Originally Posted by Dean51
(Post 21314748)
I used Barge cement to reattach the rim tape in a few spots where it was loose, then mounted the tires to the rim with Vittoria Mastik.
Dean "Rim strips" "Rim tape" "Tubular tape" "Rim protector" "Casing strip" "Rim band" I've heard all of these used for at least two different items. |
Originally Posted by smontanaro
(Post 21315847)
Kelly's Cork Renew seems to work well.
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@RobbieTunes ..... you caught me in an error. I used Barge cement to reattach the BASE tape. 'Apologies to you and any others who I may have confused with my error.
Dean |
Originally Posted by Dean51
(Post 21315991)
@RobbieTunes ..... you caught me in an error. I used Barge cement to reattach the BASE tape. 'Apologies to you and any others who I may have confused with my error.
Dean Mounting tubulars to rim: tubular cement/tubular glue or double-sided tape made for that purpose. Repairing the base tape: Barge cement, any others. Reconditioning the sidewall: tent sealer or Kelly's Cork Renew Anyone wants to chime in, feel free. |
Hmmm.
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 21307806)
If you like Schwalbe One HT 28mm tubulars in all black, they are at this moment $26.30 (plus shipping) on Amazon. They are back ordered from Amazon UK and my total for two with shipping was $68. I won't be charged until they ship.
Did your order go through? |
Originally Posted by machinist42
(Post 21333373)
I ordered a brace of these when you posted this link. I hadn't heard anything so checked my account moments ago and my order was cancelled. However, it gave me the option of re-ordering, and again they seem to be on offer for ~$26: backorder, though.
Did your order go through? |
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 21333518)
So far they have not been shipped nor has the order been canceled. I remain hopeful. This morning when I checked my order status, one tire says it is being "preparing for shipment," while the other has a status of "not yet shipped." If they eventually arrive at this price that will be fantastic. If I never see them, I know Amazon won't charge me. I'm not loosing any sleep over this one way or the other.
That size of tire no longer displays as for sale at the site. I only wanted to let you know that if your order had been unceremoniously cancelled as mine was, the option to re-order was presenting yesterday. Also, thank you for bringing this to my attention way back when. I do hope it goes through, but if not, no worries. |
machinist42 Lo and behold! I just received an email from Amazon and one of my Schwalbe One HT 28mm tubular tires has shipped with an estimated arrival on March 3rd! The other is still marked as "Not yet shipped...." Hopefully I receive both and won't end up with an orphan. :innocent:
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Update on the above post: I checked the my Amazon Order Status this morning and the second tire continues to say "Not yet shipped...," but when I clicked on "Track Package" it gives me the same status as the first tire with the same Australian Post tracking number due to arrive on March 3rd. Both indicate the location is an "Amazon Facility in Rochester, Medway, GB." So posibly, I'll receive both and they are shipping together.
Were my tires, which I believe are made in Germany or Switzerland, shipped to Australia, next to Great Britain, and eventually to here in New Hampshire, USA, all for $16 USD!?! Our global economy is mind boggling! |
Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh
(Post 21336454)
Our global economy is mind boggling!
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Originally Posted by jimmuller
(Post 21337421)
It will be mind boggling if you ever get those tires. :D
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Anyone try out Veloflex Roubaaix's on gravel? The site says they are designed for cobblestone wet and dry so I'm assuming they would hold up on fairly packed gravel? I'm considering these for the Eroica California. Thoughts?
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Originally Posted by hwheel72
(Post 21339840)
Anyone try out Veloflex Roubaaix's on gravel? The site says they are designed for cobblestone wet and dry so I'm assuming they would hold up on fairly packed gravel? I'm considering these for the Eroica California. Thoughts?
25mm is a narrow gravel tire. Except on an 'ideal' packed gravel road, of course. edit: Which route you choose makes all the difference. even if the sloppy conditions on the long route are only a few miles, too narrow on the rubber can be hazardous. Unless you walk the slop. one showstopper stops the whole show. |
Discovered way back in the old red glue days that an old toothbrush works. Good for Vittoria Mastik as well.
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hwheel72 What do we know about Veloflex Roubaix sidewalls? Some of the EroicaCA gravel is sharper than cobblestones. I'm a Sprinter Gatorskin for gravel fan and used them (25s) the last 3 years but I have been tempted to get some fancy and nicer riding tubulars that will be fun to ride on during the rest of Spring and early Summer -- if they survive the Central Coast Gravel.
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Specialized has put their Turbo Allrounder tubular on Sale. Normally $50, now $35. Same tpi, same weight and latex tube as with the $100 Turbo. Black sidewalls.
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Originally Posted by Wildwood
(Post 21342155)
depends on weather conditions leading up to the event. Or if they grade the road and it is soft.
25mm is a narrow gravel tire. Except on an 'ideal' packed gravel road, of course. edit: Which route you choose makes all the difference. even if the sloppy conditions on the long route are only a few miles, too narrow on the rubber can be hazardous. Unless you walk the slop. one showstopper stops the whole show. |
Originally Posted by hwheel72
(Post 21339840)
Anyone try out Veloflex Roubaaix's on gravel? The site says they are designed for cobblestone wet and dry so I'm assuming they would hold up on fairly packed gravel? I'm considering these for the Eroica California. Thoughts?
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