Anyone have a big fat seat on their 20" folder?
 

When I rode a non folding bike, I had a big cushy seat like the cloud 9 cruiser seat.

Im just wondering how ridiculous a big cushy seat would look on a 20" folder?

Anyone have any pics?

Nope.. go to the web for your saddle picture needs.

As typical My LBS has a display wall of various saddles, that new bike buyers and other customers buy,

and there is a discount box of 'take off ' saddles that are new, but the bike buyer wanted something else, off that same wall ..


My butt is fatter but my pelvis has not changed in 40 years so I still use a similar saddle on those old bikes..

sitting more upright on my Brompton, I got one of their saddles, from a batch they ordered from Fizik..

Whatever saddle you want just fit it and forget. It's one of the customisations you expect on a bike, not everyone changes the saddle on a new bike but a good percentage do. Don't forget to get the tyre pressure just right as well so it gives a suspension effect too to increase comfort. I know that sounds obvious but I've seen people who just ramp up to the pressure listed on the sidewall of the tyre with no consideration for rider weight.

How does rider weight affect the pressure you choose? (I hope you're not going to say heavy riders must use less pressure as it adds up or something like that... :) )

If you get a saddle that properly supports your sit bones, with or without a cutout as needed, you don't need all that padding. That is why Brooks saddles are so popular. Consider a properly fitted minimally cushioned saddle and add a thudbuster if you need suspension.

+1
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Glossary Sa - So
A Comfortable Bicycle Saddle
Leather Saddles

Mine has a Brooks Pro which is bigger and fatter than the saddle on my other bikes - does that count?

I normally use a fairly narrow saddle for my road bikes, but I put a Brooks B67 on our Dahon. It is wider and has springs for a bit of suspension. It works well for the upright riding position. I would not use a big padded saddle, but every butt is different.

No heavy riders need more pressure and lighter riders need less. Isn't it something like 15% widening of the tyre, i.e. 7.5% per side as you look down between rider off and on the bike? Obviously a very rough guide but you are aiming for some give in the tyre but not too much. This gives optimal grip as well as suspension effect. Obviously a simple test of applying your weight quickly to the bike while stationary to see how the tyres respond to mimic road bumps etc is effective too. Many very heavy riders exceed the stated pressure on the sidewall of the tyre slightly in order to get the right suspension effect and quality of the tyres and tubes becomes more critical for heavy riders. Although saying that some of the most expensive tyres can be the worst tyres for heavy riders if they have pursued speed and lightness in their design philosophy.

Personal preference comes into it too. A lighter rider may prefer higher pressures for less rolling resistance over comfort but heavier riders should always ensure the tyre pressure is ample so the tyres don't bottom out and get damaged. Not forgetting running tubes at higher pressure often means air leakage is higher and needs more frequent pumping. Same as those ultra thin road bike tyres that have recommendations to pump up the pressure every day where as a low pressure mountain bike tyre could be good for a week or so. So heavy guys have to get the pump out more often