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-   -   For the love of English 3 speeds... (https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=623699)

BigChief 08-22-17 08:03 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by arty dave (Post 19809318)

I have a question - I want to touch up the paint a little on the SA shifter and the Raleigh headbadge - any suggestions on how to?

I've never done a head badge but I have replaced colors on shifter faceplates. On this one, the colors failed completely right down to the brass. I scraped out the corrosion then tried to fill with paint. Paint might work, but I found you need it to set just right before you wipe the top of the plate or it cleans the color out of the embossed spots where you want it to stay. I decided to use an alcohol based ink instead. This sets very quickly and is easy to use. The skinny font and lines were super easy. I just colored the area with a red sharpie and wiped off the surface with an alcohol dampened rag and bingo, nice red fill in the lines. I did the same with the wider black area and it filled all the small spots and edges, but the rag wiped off some color in the center which I had to touch up with the sharpie. Came out nice I think.

Attachment 577373

Attachment 577374

Attachment 577375

Attachment 577376

Velocivixen 08-22-17 08:38 AM

Those shifter covers look really nice. Where did you get alcohol based paint? Just a craft store? I was gonna suggest a paint pen - Blick Art Supply has them with different sized tips, etc.

BigChief 08-22-17 08:58 AM


Originally Posted by Velocivixen (Post 19809728)
Those shifter covers look really nice. Where did you get alcohol based paint? Just a craft store? I was gonna suggest a paint pen - Blick Art Supply has them with different sized tips, etc.

I just used Sharpie permanent markers. You just go over the area then wipe it off the top surface with the alcohol dampened rag. That fills in all the tiny places.

3speedslow 08-22-17 09:15 AM

This is so timely! I will be taking an old shifter apart to replace the spring. Need to see all the info I can about rebuilding one. I know I am in for a fight from what I have read!

Nice work @BigChief

johnnyspaghetti 08-22-17 09:19 AM

Nice work.

bazil4696 08-22-17 01:33 PM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19809470)
On reflection, this hub has never worked properly. It's stamped '71 and I'm pretty sure it came off an old CCM Galaxie years ago. I kept it because the rim was clean and the wheel was true.
Attachment 577331
The loose pin holding the sun gear appears to have been this way for a long time and I can imagine the effect could be to distort the axle over time.
It was a frustrating day spent figuring it out but at least I learned how to service a hub properly....

Attachment 577332

Hi gster!
Great to see you at the show.
glad you could finally get into the guts of the AW hub. THE MOST IMPORTANT adjustment is the play in the axle jam nut..1/4 to 5/8 turn after seating it.
You will find how that tiny amount of looseness effects how it shifts up and down. So try it. Set the loosness to minimum, then go ride ten mins feeling how it shifts. loosen it to midrange in the setting, and ride again, noting how there is a subtle change, then go back and adjust the cones to max, and go for a quick spin.
You should notice and determine a preference as to how loose the cone adjustment is.

I prefer mine just a tickle on the snug side, closer to min 1/3 turn off bearing seat.

arty dave 08-22-17 05:17 PM

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4413/...16b6bdfe_z.jpgIMG20170823071445 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

This is after I neutralised it in bicarb water.

Big Chief thanks heaps for the advise! I did try the 'paint and wipe' method but as you said, the paint just wiped right out. The only other advise I'd read was to let the paint dry and then sand the paint off the raised parts of the headbadge. But mine is old and worn already so I didn't want to put it through that and lose more material. Sharpies, cool! ...and easy!
Also BC - nice green on your new ride...it looks far more green than the usual 'bronze' green.

thumpism 08-22-17 06:48 PM

Did a driving trip to SC for the eclipse and checked CL after getting home for the locales I'd passed through. This is in Winston-Salem NC. That's a twist shifter for an old Sturmey. Pretty bike.

https://winstonsalem.craigslist.org/...248023147.html

"RARE FIND" OLDER ARMSTRONG "WOMEN'S" BICYCLE CIRCA 1950's "REDUCED" - $275 (Advance)

https://images.craigslist.org/00S0S_...hD_600x450.jpg

condition: good

Older Armstrong "WOMEN'S" Bicycle

Circa 1950's

Good Condition, Everything Works

CALLS ONLY show contact info ****NO TEXTS PLEASE****

Price WAS $350.00, NOW $275.00

thumpism 08-22-17 07:18 PM

And here's a pretty one in Raleigh. Never heard of Marfield.

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/bik/d...258637442.html

VINTAGE MARFIELD 3 SPEED - $100 (RALEIGH)

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/bik/d...258637442.html

in great condition.made in england.rides great.19in frame.26in tires.cash and carry.if nterested please call or text bob at show contact info thanks.

BigChief 08-22-17 08:40 PM

Another Raleigh made label I never heard of. A google search turned up that it was sold through Marshal Fields. A department store out of Chicago.

BigChief 08-22-17 09:17 PM


Originally Posted by arty dave (Post 19811155)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4413/...16b6bdfe_z.jpgIMG20170823071445 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

This is after I neutralised it in bicarb water.

Big Chief thanks heaps for the advise! I did try the 'paint and wipe' method but as you said, the paint just wiped right out. The only other advise I'd read was to let the paint dry and then sand the paint off the raised parts of the headbadge. But mine is old and worn already so I didn't want to put it through that and lose more material. Sharpies, cool! ...and easy!
Also BC - nice green on your new ride...it looks far more green than the usual 'bronze' green.

True, there is not a hint of metallic in this green. It's just as solid as green porch paint. A little searching on the subject turned up this blog post.
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/2017...nze-green.html
Apparently, even if the catalogs only mentioned bronze green, there were variations.

AngeloDolce 08-22-17 11:15 PM

[QUOTE=arty dave;19729097]

Originally Posted by AngeloDolce (Post 18776678)

"The gears on the AB hub are the same as the AW; it uses a larger shell to accommodate the brake (I believe same dimensions as the AG Dynohub shell). The left cone is different, to accommodate the shell."

I just came across this on page 420something and it made me wonder if S5 innards could be swapped with the AB guts if the left cone from the AB is used. I've swapped S5 innards into an AW shell, so can't see why this wouldn't work. Has anyone tried this?

I'm curious too.

I've also put S5 internals into the AW shell, but haven't tried it with the AB.

arty dave 08-23-17 05:15 AM

Angelo I looked at the parts lists & diagrams for both - the planet cage on the AB looks smaller than the S5 planet cage. So I don't think it will work :(
I have an S5 that is currently out of its shell. I'll leave it that way and compare it with the AB hub from my DL-1 that I want to open and clean. Stay tuned, hopefully within the next week or so I'll post my findings. An AB5 would be a perfect hub for a roadster :)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/...ba339257_c.jpgIMG20170823181013 by arty dave armour, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/...6b376df2_c.jpgIMG20170823190652 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

In the 1st image I'd already put some black sharpie on the headbadge. I like the result - it's what I was hoping for; a bit more colour & still a bit worn looking. Had to go over it a few times as I'd accidentally wipe out the colour I'd already put in :i I guess you could mask off one colour while doing the other.

BigChief 08-23-17 06:06 AM


Originally Posted by arty dave (Post 19811916)
Angelo I looked at the parts lists & diagrams for both - the planet cage on the AB looks smaller than the S5 planet cage. So I don't think it will work :(
I have an S5 that is currently out of its shell. I'll leave it that way and compare it with the AB hub from my DL-1 that I want to open and clean. Stay tuned, hopefully within the next week or so I'll post my findings. An AB5 would be a perfect hub for a roadster :)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4428/...ba339257_c.jpgIMG20170823181013 by arty dave armour, on Flickrhttps://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/...6b376df2_c.jpgIMG20170823190652 by arty dave armour, on Flickr

In the 1st image I'd already put some black sharpie on the headbadge. I like the result - it's what I was hoping for; a bit more colour & still a bit worn looking. Had to go over it a few times as I'd accidentally wipe out the colour I'd already put in :i I guess you could mask off one colour while doing the other.

Nice job! I can see how these parts would be considerably more difficult than the flat shifter faceplate. The badge on my 72 roadster is completely devoid of color. I think I'll give this a try. Looks great.

gster 08-23-17 07:03 AM

4 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by bazil4696 (Post 19810632)
Hi gster!
Great to see you at the show.
glad you could finally get into the guts of the AW hub. THE MOST IMPORTANT adjustment is the play in the axle jam nut..1/4 to 5/8 turn after seating it.
You will find how that tiny amount of looseness effects how it shifts up and down. So try it. Set the loosness to minimum, then go ride ten mins feeling how it shifts. loosen it to midrange in the setting, and ride again, noting how there is a subtle change, then go back and adjust the cones to max, and go for a quick spin.
You should notice and determine a preference as to how loose the cone adjustment is.

I prefer mine just a tickle on the snug side, closer to min 1/3 turn off bearing seat.

Glad you came out.
It was a great show and (as usual) the weather was perfect.
I'm pretty good with adjusting the hub and now that I've spent an entire day messing around with that other hub, I now know what to look for inside.
Here's an interesting bike for sale.
A Raleigh built and re-branded British Supreme 3 speed.
Attachment 577536

Attachment 577537

Attachment 577538

Attachment 577539

treebound 08-23-17 07:49 AM


Originally Posted by markk900 (Post 19802185)
I didn't hear anything unusual....some of mine are noisier than others, and chaincases are especially bad....

Thanks for the sound check. I did find a loose nut&bolt on the rear fender which was probably the cause of some rattles.

3speedslow 08-23-17 03:35 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Got these" old pieces of junk" from my friends dark dusty bins at the LBS. now to figure out if I rebuild or try to repair the one that is pushed in, restricting the spring.

The other is a replacement for my Bluemmel pump nossile.

noglider 08-23-17 03:58 PM

@BigChief, bravo on the shifter renovation!

@thumpism, did you buy that bike? Those twist shifters are notoriously bad. I had one, and it was bad for me, too.

thumpism 08-23-17 04:53 PM


Originally Posted by noglider (Post 19813431)
[MENTION=398265]@thumpism, did you buy that bike? Those twist shifters are notoriously bad. I had one, and it was bad for me, too.

No, I was already out of the area by the time I checked CL, my patented method for NOT buying bikes I might be tempted to get (http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...g-failure.html). I did my usual trip prep; had the money, the rack and bungees, etc., but did not need them. Besides, I'm all 3-speeded up anyway.

BigChief 08-23-17 07:57 PM


Originally Posted by 3speedslow (Post 19813363)
Got these" old pieces of junk" from my friends dark dusty bins at the LBS. now to figure out if I rebuild or try to repair the one that is pushed in, restricting the spring.

The other is a replacement for my Bluemmel pump nossile.

What a great find!!! Those will turn out beautiful. Couldn't seem to get PM working. I use a 1/16" punch

plympton 08-24-17 07:51 AM

Still trying to narrow the year on my bike project. Probably a Dawn Tourist serial # 69722. During my hours of google searching I found an image of tube brackets which I can not find now. But, on this bike, on my top tube at the seat tube the bracket is plain like a copper plumbing coupler, at the head tube the top tube bracket has a design feature. [is it called a birds mouth] I find this, plan on one end and design on the other end of the top tube in the 1950, 1951 and 1952 models. Any thoughts?

gster 08-24-17 08:20 AM

The Bike that Started it All
 
2 Attachment(s)
This 1978 Canadian built Raleigh Superbe was the first 3 speed I bought and started my interest in these machines.
Purchased from a guy up the street seven years ago, this is my everyday work bike and gets the most use. It also gets the most attention. last year all the bearings were re-packed and new cables installed in the original ribbed housings.
Attachment 577681

Yesterday, I installed a 22T cog and a new chain. We'll see that works out.

Attachment 577681

In fact, after buying another English built Superbe in much better condition, I foolishly sold this one. Luckily the buyer had second thoughts (i.e. he didn't have any money) and the bike came back to me.

BigChief 08-24-17 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by gster (Post 19814634)
This 1978 Canadian built Raleigh Superbe was the first 3 speed I bought and started my interest in these machines.
Purchased from a guy up the street seven years ago, this is my everyday work bike and gets the most use. It also gets the most attention. last year all the bearings were re-packed and new cables installed in the original ribbed housings.
Attachment 577681

Yesterday, I installed a 22T cog and a new chain. We'll see that works out.

Attachment 577681

In fact, after buying another English built Superbe in much better condition, I foolishly sold this one. Luckily the buyer had second thoughts (i.e. he didn't have any money) and the bike came back to me.

I don't remember seeing this one. Nice! After I get my green Sports on the road we'll have another pair of twins.

FBOATSB 08-24-17 09:33 AM

I was in the COOP for a totally unrelated reason and just happened upon this unmarked chrome steel stem while perusing the bins. It just spoke "English three speed" to me. Would this be correct?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sn...g=w547-h971-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H5...g=w547-h971-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jg...A=w547-h971-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Of...w=w547-h971-no

BigChief 08-24-17 09:34 AM


Originally Posted by plympton (Post 19814561)
Still trying to narrow the year on my bike project. Probably a Dawn Tourist serial # 69722. During my hours of google searching I found an image of tube brackets which I can not find now. But, on this bike, on my top tube at the seat tube the bracket is plain like a copper plumbing coupler, at the head tube the top tube bracket has a design feature. [is it called a birds mouth] I find this, plan on one end and design on the other end of the top tube in the 1950, 1951 and 1952 models. Any thoughts?

Yes, the bracket shapes at the steering tube and seat tube along with the button type oiler in the bottom bracket are the features that date the frame to before 1955. The guide wheel lug on the top tube is the feature that dates the frame after 1950. We know the bike was fixed up sometime after the later 60s by the rear fender and pedals, so it's hard to say if it was originally a Dawn or Dawn Tourist. The tourist was supposed to have both the enclosed chaincase and 3 speed hub as standard. I think it would be correct to restore it to either model.


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