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Replacing back rim - what do I need to know?
I am bike-illiterate -- hence why I am writing this post -- so please bear with me as I ask these questions...
I noticed a crack in my rear rim, so I am trying to find the correct rim replacement for my Cannondale Quick 8. I have no idea what the heck I'm searching for. Here is what my back rim says: etrto 622 x 16x alloy 6061 My back tire: 700 x 38C Rear Cog: Sunrace MFM2A, 7-speed (FREEWHEEL) My hub has 32 spoke holes I am looking to buy a rear wheel with the hub and spokes already on it. The only old part I will re-use will be my rear cassette (freewheel). What rear rim/wheel should I be looking for that is compatible? What are the specs that will fit my bike? Anything else I need to know? Thanks SPECS FROM WEBSITE OF CANNONDALE QUICK 8: Frame Quick, Butted 6061 Alloy, SAVE, 1-1/8" headtube Fork Quick, Cromoly, 1-1/8" steerer Rims/Wheels Cannondale C4, double wall, 32-hole Spokes Stainless, 14g Tires Duro 7044, 700 x 35c Crankset Prowheel Chainrings 48/38/28 Chain KMC Z51, 7-speed Front Derailleur Shimano Tourney, 31.8 clamp Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera Rear Cogs Sunrace MFM2A, 7-speed Shifters Shimano EF41 Handlebars Cannondale C4, 6061 alloy, 20mm rise,10 deg sweep, 640mm Tape/Grips Cannondale Ergo Performance, Lock-On Stem Cannondale, 6061 alloy, 31.8, 12 deg Brake Levers Cannondale Forged alloy Brakes Cannondale Mini V, Cartridge Pads Pedals Cannondale Fitness Reinforced Composite Saddle Cannondale Fitness Ergo Seat Post Cannondale C4, 6061 Alloy, 27.2x350mm |
You're looking for a 700c (622) wheel with a threaded freewheel hub (not freehub).
These are older, having largely been replaced by freehubs, so your choices may be limited. The one important variable is the axle width, most likely 126 or 130mm. You then need to review the rim choices, looking for one similar to yours, but this isn't critical. You will also have choices between bolt on or QR. Either if fine, so it's about preference and price. |
Are you certain it's a crack in the rim? If its a alloy rim, then the ends of the extrusion may just be butted together and pins that you can't see hold them in alignment.
Welcome to BF If you want to show a picture of the crack, then just upload it to the Gallery and let us know it's there. We'll find it. |
Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23204145)
You're looking for a 700c (622) wheel with a threaded freewheel hub (not freehub).
These are older, having largely been replaced by freehubs, so your choices may be limited. The one important variable is the axle width, most likely 126 or 130mm. You then need to review the rim choices, looking for one similar to yours, but this isn't critical. You will also have choices between bolt on or QR. Either if fine, so it's about preference and price.
Originally Posted by Iride01
(Post 23204166)
Are you certain it's a crack in the rim? If its a alloy rim, then the ends of the extrusion may just be butted together and pins that you can't see hold them in alignment.
Welcome to BF If you want to show a picture of the crack, then just upload it to the Gallery and let us know it's there. We'll find it. |
QR axles are typically 11mm longer than the hub width (over thevocknut faces,) so that would imply a 135mm hub. You can confirm by measuring the inside width of the dropouts.
As mentioned, not all "cracks" are cracks. If it's a double wall rim, and the crack is straight, and opposite the valve odds greatly favor it being the joint. |
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Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23204134)
I am bike-illiterate...
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
(Post 23204145)
You're looking for a 700c (622) wheel with a threaded freewheel hub (not freehub).
These are older, having largely been replaced by freehubs, so your choices may be limited. The one important variable is the axle width, most likely 126 or 130mm. You then need to review the rim choices, looking for one similar to yours, but this isn't critical. You will also have choices between bolt on or QR. Either if fine, so it's about preference and price. |
Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23204134)
I am bike-illiterate -- hence why I am writing this post -- so please bear with me as I ask these questions...
I noticed a crack in my rear rim, so I am trying to find the correct rim replacement for my Cannondale Quick 8. I have no idea what the heck I'm searching for. Here is what my back rim says: etrto 622 x 16x alloy 6061 My back tire: 700 x 38C Rear Cog: Sunrace MFM2A, 7-speed (FREEWHEEL) My hub has 32 spoke holes I am looking to buy a rear wheel with the hub and spokes already on it. The only old part I will re-use will be my rear cassette (freewheel). What rear rim/wheel should I be looking for that is compatible? What are the specs that will fit my bike? Anything else I need to know? Thanks |
Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23204134)
I have no idea what the heck I'm searching for.
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There are some parts of this story I left out because I didn't want to get into the details, but I guess I should share it..
It all started when I broke a spoke on the bike rear wheel. Knowing practically nothing about spokes or tension, I thought I could just replace the spoke, tighten it and all would be fine and dandy. Well, come to find out IT'S DIFFICULT and since this time I've probably broken six more spokes after replacing them because I screwed up all the tensions and now they are all on the loose end. I ended up buying a spoke tension meter that should be here in a little over a week. I'm hoping this will help me tension the spokes right, but I have a hunch it's not going to be that easy as the old spokes seem to be a harder metal than the newer ones I'm putting on and so tensions may vary (they are the correct length though). I've been battling these spokes and a wobbly wheel for some time now. I think I fix the tensions, and a couple hours later another spoke breaks and the wheel goes into wobbling again, and the cycle repeats. Now I'm at the point where I want to just replace the entire wheel instead of dealing with this mess. I did notice what looked like a crack in the rim, so this is why I thought I might as well replace the rim, but it might be where the seams meet since it's an aluminum rim and the "crack" is opposite of the valve as someone had mentioned. In all honesty, I wouldn't mind spending up to $150 JUST to replace the back wheel and rid myself of this spoke tension nightmare. On the other hand, I feel like if it's just the spokes then I should be able to fix it myself with the right tools and knowledge. I'm also timid to take it to a shop because I live in Manhattan and I feel like they will charge me a ton to fix it. Thoughts?
Originally Posted by fishboat
(Post 23204786)
Save yourself some trouble and expense of an incorrect decision..visit a bike shop..that's why they exist.
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 23204806)
What you seem to be asking…replacing the rim…is not impossible to do but it isn’t something you should be doing if you are truly “bike-illiterate”. There are a lot of considerations that you haven’t taken into account and you are trying to use parts that aren’t worth salvaging. Just buy a new wheel. Get one with a freehub. It will save you a lot of headache down the road. You don’t need to save anything off the old wheel. Your local bike shop can order a new wheel for you or you can check to see if you have a bicycle co-op nearby and you can pick up a used wheel.
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Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23206367)
There are some parts of this story I left out because I didn't want to get into the details, but I guess I should share it..
It all started when I broke a spoke on the bike rear wheel. Knowing practically nothing about spokes or tension, I thought I could just replace the spoke, tighten it and all would be fine and dandy. Well, come to find out IT'S DIFFICULT and since this time I've probably broken six more spokes after replacing them because I screwed up all the tensions and now they are all on the loose end. I ended up buying a spoke tension meter that should be here in a little over a week. I'm hoping this will help me tension the spokes right, but I have a hunch it's not going to be that easy as the old spokes seem to be a harder metal than the newer ones I'm putting on and so tensions may vary (they are the correct length though). I've been battling these spokes and a wobbly wheel for some time now. I think I fix the tensions, and a couple hours later another spoke breaks and the wheel goes into wobbling again, and the cycle repeats. Now I'm at the point where I want to just replace the entire wheel instead of dealing with this mess. I did notice what looked like a crack in the rim, so this is why I thought I might as well replace the rim, but it might be where the seams meet since it's an aluminum rim and the "crack" is opposite of the valve as someone had mentioned. In all honesty, I wouldn't mind spending up to $150 JUST to replace the back wheel and rid myself of this spoke tension nightmare. On the other hand, I feel like if it's just the spokes then I should be able to fix it myself with the right tools and knowledge. I'm also timid to take it to a shop because I live in Manhattan and I feel like they will charge me a ton to fix it. Thoughts? I live in Manhattan and I worry it's going to cost a lot to fix. I bought the bike used for 250.00 and I'm assuming to fix it might be close to that, but I suppose I won't know until I take it to the shop. Any ideas what it might cost me? I have no problem buying a new wheel. I just don't know what I'm looking for. Any suggestions that won't break the bank? I'm not looking for the best ride experience; just something that works and won't break easily. Next, keep your old wheel and use it to teach yourself how to rebuild the wheel. There are lots and lots of videos and books out there on wheel building. I use the one in the link on this page to teach myself how to build wheels 40 years ago. Wheelbuilding is something that is fairly easy to learn but difficult to master. A co-op can help with guidance. Take your old wheel apart and rebuild it (relace, tension, true, etc.) several times. Once you’ve practiced, get a good hub (not the OEM one you have) with a freehub, a decent rim, and, most importantly very good spokes. Since you are breaking the ones you have with regularity, it sounds like they aren’t strong enough for what you are asking of them. I suggest DT Alpine III (or Sapim Strong) in at least a 32 hole configuration. You can build a wheel but it is usually more expensive than you can buy one for. However, if you have special needs, building can result in something that fits your particular needs better. A bicycle co-op is a good resource for learning how to do lots of bicycle related mechanical tasks. |
You are guilty of making a common product valuation error. You scored a Cannondale bike for $250 because it was used. One reason the price for a used bike is less than the cost of a new bike is that the repair costs are likely to be higher and more frequent. Please don't complain about the cost of the repairs relative to the cost of the bike. That was all baked into the pricing by the invisible hand of capitalism.
I've been where you are with a very similar bad rear wheel situation. I bought a bunch of parts and tools, read forums and watched videos, and played with it for a whole bunch of hours. I learned a lot, but in the end that particular wheel hit the scrap heap. A pair of new wheels for my bike set me back $100. I think your two most realistic options at this point are to a) go through the "7 things to check before buying a wheel" that I posted above and order one yourself. Ask questions if you need help. Alternatively, b) take the wheel only (entire bike not necessary) to a bike shop and ask them to order your new wheel. Understand that the bike shop buys parts at wholesale prices, so they are making a profit even if they sell you a wheel at the exact same price you could buy it at. They probably won't mark it up a ridiculous amount beyond that, even in Manhattan. |
I recently bought a new QR wheel with a 7speed freeweheel (not cassette) compatible hub for £35. I don’t think you’re looking at dropping $150
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Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23206367)
I live in Manhattan and I worry it's going to cost a lot to fix. I bought the bike used for 250.00 and I'm assuming to fix it might be close to that, but I suppose I won't know until I take it to the shop. Any ideas what it might cost me? In Manhattan, no idea. That's a world apart from most other worlds. I'd do what Cycco suggests. At your (apparent) level of interest and knowledge of bikes..let someone who knows what you need guide you. Fixing your type of problem is, in part, what co-ops do and they have plenty of access to a wheel like you need. Find a few co-ops and take a short tour to see what is offered to get you back on the road. Pick the one you have the most confidence in. It may not hurt to take the wheel into a local bike shop and get their estimate on a replacement. An estimate won't cost you anything. |
As someone who once worked in a Manhattan bike store, I concur that you'll be stung by the price for any parts and labor and my guess is close to $200 for this. There are also few co-ops in NYC and although there is one under the Williamsburg Bridge it's more a hangout than a quick place to pop in cheap parts. I can't see any wheel available on Amazon but perhaps others can recommended an online seller.
You may also score one on Craigslist but there are plenty of sharks there waiting to sell crap at more than new prices to unsuspecting nubes. |
Originally Posted by bluehills3149
(Post 23207601)
As someone who once worked in a Manhattan bike store, I concur that you'll be stung by the price for any parts and labor and my guess is close to $200 for this. There are also few co-ops in NYC and although there is one under the Williamsburg Bridge it's more a hangout than a quick place to pop in cheap parts. I can't see any wheel available on Amazon but perhaps others can recommended an online seller.
You may also score one on Craigslist but there are plenty of sharks there waiting to sell crap at more than new prices to unsuspecting nubes. |
I would think a rear wheel from a coop would be about $30 in my part of the rock, your local I would have no idea
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this would work (based on info above) https://velomine.com/products/wheel-...s-steel-spokes
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I would go to your local shop and get a wheel and replace it. I wouldn't buy something cheap and if you do get something cheap ask your local shop to make sure it is trued and properly tensioned and be willing to pay money for the service. You can upgrade to a cassette wheel because they do make 7 speed cassettes but in the end don't put a ton of money towards the bike.
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Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23206367)
There are some parts of this story I left out because I didn't want to get into the details, but I guess I should share it..
It all started when I broke a spoke on the bike rear wheel. Knowing practically nothing about spokes or tension, I thought I could just replace the spoke, tighten it and all would be fine and dandy. Well, come to find out IT'S DIFFICULT and since this time I've probably broken six more spokes after replacing them because I screwed up all the tensions and now they are all on the loose end. I ended up buying a spoke tension meter that should be here in a little over a week. I'm hoping this will help me tension the spokes right, but I have a hunch it's not going to be that easy as the old spokes seem to be a harder metal than the newer ones I'm putting on and so tensions may vary (they are the correct length though). I've been battling these spokes and a wobbly wheel for some time now. I think I fix the tensions, and a couple hours later another spoke breaks and the wheel goes into wobbling again, and the cycle repeats. Now I'm at the point where I want to just replace the entire wheel instead of dealing with this mess. I did notice what looked like a crack in the rim, so this is why I thought I might as well replace the rim, but it might be where the seams meet since it's an aluminum rim and the "crack" is opposite of the valve as someone had mentioned. In all honesty, I wouldn't mind spending up to $150 JUST to replace the back wheel and rid myself of this spoke tension nightmare. On the other hand, I feel like if it's just the spokes then I should be able to fix it myself with the right tools and knowledge. I'm also timid to take it to a shop because I live in Manhattan and I feel like they will charge me a ton to fix it. Thoughts? I live in Manhattan and I worry it's going to cost a lot to fix. I bought the bike used for 250.00 and I'm assuming to fix it might be close to that, but I suppose I won't know until I take it to the shop. Any ideas what it might cost me? |
3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by bkw99
(Post 23206367)
It all started when I broke a spoke on the bike rear wheel.
This is an easy fix for a LBS that does these repairs all the time. Change the one spoke. True the wheel. If the wheel was already true before, then it's almost always just that one spoke that only needs to be nipple wrenched. Spokes come in all lengths and diameters and it can be errornous for the DIY unless they know exactly the spokes they need. Not sure why the OP is making such a big fuss by guessing, disrupted the nearby good spokes, buying tension tools, wasting so much time not cycling. |
I'll go ahead and take it to a shop and see if they are able to give me a quote or suggestions as other here have mentioned. Thank you everyone for your responses :)
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UPDATE:
Surprisingly, a LBS near me in Manhattan has rough estimates for bike services they do. I was pleasantly surprised that it's not as expensive as I had thought. I'd leave a link to their prices to give examples, but I cannot do that yet as new poster on these forums. Here are some examples: Bicycle Habitat's Bicycle Repair ServicesTune-Up Packages
Bike Assembly & Frame-Up BuildsBoxed Bike Builds
Drivetrain Service
Brake
Wheel/Tire
Installation
Frame/Fork/Misc
Headset, Hub and Bearings
Travel
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All prices from any LBS are good.
LBS are there for profit. Pay them well, and they will do work. |
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