Follow-up to previous post. The non-dive side gets disassembled including the removal of the non-drive bearing . I got a 12mm hex key wrench (that's a lot of hex!) and used a modified shade tree vise (space between concrete pavers
![Thumbs Up](images/smilies/thumb.gif)
) to hold the key, long end up. The wheel is lowered onto the key, freehub side up, and turned counter-clockwise to remove. It's on tight.
At this stage I was holding the wheel without the freehub, the freehub, and the locking sleeve/bolt which came out with the hex key. I was hoping to further disassemble the freehub but couldn't locate any service instructions among Fulcrum's extensive collection of service and parts documents. I cleaned the grease out of the non-bearing side and sprayed a liberal amount of light lubricant (cable lube) into the space where the pawls can be heard clicking. I did the same on the bearing side, taking care to keep the light lube away from the bearing. I "worked" the freehub to encourage the penetration of the lube then repacked the lube I'd removed on the non-bearing side.
The assembly is just a reverse of the steps with the non-drive side bearing being reset, your method is probably better than mine. ;-)
On my test ride, I did not get the noise always and the
creak is audible only when the freehub is spun to a particular arrangement. I suspect that one of two outcomes is likely, a gradual reduction in noise as the lazy pawl loosen's up. Or a complete failure of the hub due to broken internal parts, an alternate explanation for the current noise.