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Old 06-24-21, 11:18 AM
  #68  
Deepcherry
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Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Spain
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Bikes: Corratec Xvert, Peugeot Origin 30, GT Outpost, Kona Cinder Cone ‘93 Specialized StumpJumper, Ritchey mtb

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Originally Posted by DorkDisk
That's looking good. If you haven't already planned on it, I'd recommend using Framesaver on the interior after the paint dries.
That is sound advice. This frame has always been local, and although sometimes humid, we have a temperate winter so the steel has not suffered too much from corrosion.

I have since "pickled" the bare steel surface for an hour or two with cleaning vinegar-soaked paper towel, pulling the surface rust from the pitted areas.


-Edit- I should mention that any difficult corners with surface rust should be treated with brush-on rust converter.

Then the threaded holes and seat tube were blocked by whatever means. Mask that which does not need painting.




Hung up in my favourite frame-painting tree.


Degreaser now to remove any barrier to the etch primer.

A dusting coat of primer.

Let that dry for 15 minutes (25C / 77F ambiente temp in the shade).

Two wet coats with suitable drying time between. Pay special attention covering properly the welded tube intersections and braze-ons.




I forgot to mask the brake bosses, so I shall gently sand off the primer here when dry, and mask off before adding more paint.


Leave for two weeks or as long as you can bear for the primer to really dry hard. I usually wait until I cannot smell solvent at all.

Next to come will be a light sanding and more primer!

Last edited by Deepcherry; 06-25-21 at 02:07 AM.
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