Wow there's a lot to cover here. haha. Problem is I doubt any manufacturer has a ready made model with all your requirements. For those with 3x11 like the XT, which would give you the bottom end you want, you have to give up the top end.
Pinion/IGH:
1. About NZ$3.5-4.5k should get you on a Priority 600, a Rabenick TS10, Maxx Cross all with Pinion drives, and it can be fine tuned with cog sizes for your needs, just by changing the front or rear cog. The actual gearing is lower in general so you may like it off the rack. And it has the accessories like fenders included.
2. If you want to get into the P18, you will have go to custom bikes, which are not budget friendly.
3. Rohloffs are also great but may not be what you want, since each gear shift gap is a little wider than Pinion 18, but narrower than the 12.
Non IGH:
1. You could get any strong aluminum frame, and build your own, but you have to be weary of compatibility of all drivetrain components. With a Deore XT 3x10 and 11-36, it would give you that bit of bottom end, BUT the frame is the issue since more of these 3x groupsets have MTB specs, and you want to stick with commuter/touring specs, your chainline and Q-factors will be off, and of course, they also accommodate wider tires, so you do have a bit better ride but probably tougher climbs.
At the end of the day, trying to mash parts not designed to work together, and hoping they work could turn out to be a total disaster. And does it matter if you roll down the hill at 40 or 45kph? I would prioritize an easier climb than ultimate top speed. For me, the cheapest upgrade test for you is actually a 11-36t 10 speed cassette and long cage derailleur upgrade, which would cost less than $300. Will 2t more give you that easier uphill climb with load?
As for the rack snapping, I assuming it's the extension piece? There are racks with extend backwards away from the discs. Your need for a trailer would probably cos strain if not mounted on the dropouts. I've broken 3 bike mounts ferrying my kids in a trailer back then, and I was glad they were steel so fixing them was easy!
I suggest you look at thru axle bikes and get a Robert Axle extended axle to tow your trailer, if you haven't already. The dropouts are easily the strongest mounts on the bike so better the axle break than your bike frame mounting points, especially if you go to a carbon frame!
I suggest you also look at going to 35c. That may give you a smidge more top end speed going down hill.
I had the similar requirements as you, minus the trailer. I wanted a super wide gearing in a road/hybrid geometry that's under 10kg for the 1 bike that does all except heavy touring. I ended up buying a custom Ti from Germany. So yes overall, your needs of super wide gearing, high load bearing, and top end speed means you probably have to compromise somewhere, or shell out the $ to get what you want, and you still won't be happy, just like me! haha
Originally Posted by
smasha
My old commuter bike is about 10 years old, never quite what I wanted, and it seems like 27-speed setups are out of fashion. Unfortunately, it seems like most newer gearing options are worse, for me.
I live with hills. That means up hills and down hills.
Current setup is 26x36x48 cranks (175 crank-arms) with a 9sp 11-34 cassette. 700c x 32c wheels/tires.
Gears: This give me about as much range as I want on the high end, but leaves me wanting more on the low end. I tend to go downhill with empty panniers, and uphill with fully loaded panniers. I mostly have enough gears to stay within a comfortable cadence, so fewer gears does not appeal to me.
Seems like current setups have fewer gears and less range from lowest to highest gear. Crap for a commuter bike in hilly terrain.
I'm kind of tempted by the idea of a Rohloff or Kindernay 14 speed hub, maybe with a belt-drive. Maybe a Pinion gearbox? But it seems a bit crazy to spend more on a commuter bicycle than a car would cost. Also seems a bit crazy to have a rear-wheel that costs more than most bikes.
So I'm wondering what cost-sensitive (value conscious?) options I have, for a good commuter bike with both a wide range of gears, and enough gears to keep a comfortable cadence, up and down hills, with light and heavy loads.
Not looking for an e-bike. Probably looking for something that will work well with front and rear panniers. Other considerations… Upright/comfortable riding position w/ flat-bars. Aluminium or carbon frame and fork; I don't like steel's weight or susceptibility to rust. Compatibility with a cargo-trailer might be nice, but not a strict requirement. Internal cabling preferred, or at least no cabling along the top-tube. Disc-brakes (hills, weather). Not sure if what I want is more of a "commuter" or "adventure" or "bike-packer" bike; I'll probably be using it more for commuting and car-free living (eg daily transport, grocery shopping), but if/when Junior moves out, I may want to do some "adventure" and/or "bike-packing" trips.
I'm living in NZ, so availability, shipping/duties, fitting/sizing, and just being able to sit on it and ride around a parking lot before I buy are all factors.