Old 04-15-22, 03:58 PM
  #7  
LV2TNDM
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Bikes: Cannondale tandems: '92 Road, '97 Mtn. Mongoose 10.9 Ti, Kelly Deluxe, Tommaso Chorus, Cdale MT2000, Schwinn Deluxe Cruiser, Torker Unicycle, among others.

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Originally Posted by bboy314
If the barrel adjusters are maxed out and the pads still have life, why not just tighten the cable?
Because as cantilever brake pads wear, they hit lower and lower on the rim until "OH CRAP!" they dive under the rim and NO MORE BRAKE!!! (Ask me how I know!)

Canti pads need to be set properly to hit the rim at the correct angle, achieve good leverage, avoid brake pad dive, prevent squeal, and make sure you aren't gonna slash that sidewall. Straddle cable length should be optimized for optimal leverage and braking power. Too long, not enough power, too short, too squishy.

Now if the OP actually means v-brakes, then (in an Emily Litella voice), "Never mind!" Set up still requires much of the above, but without the dire consequences. Many v-brakes require you just push the pad against the rim loose, make sure it's tangent and at the proper height, and tighten down the nut. Squeal was supposedly eliminated and toe wasn't necessary. (But we all know that isn't true, don't we!)
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