View Single Post
Old 07-12-23, 07:39 PM
  #23  
oldschoolbike
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 151

Bikes: 1974 PX-10E sold, 1977 Witcomb stolen, 1980 Roberts 1 speed, 1987 Cyclops 3 x 6 friction triple crank, 2010 Masi Commuter 1 speed, 2017 Ribble 525 2 x 10 with Ergos

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times in 18 Posts
With loose reference to the Brandt book, there would be only one real issue with such a wheel: Radial spoke tensions would work together to pull outward on the hub flange, while crossed spoke tensions largely oppose each other, with a resulting lower outward force. This is a problem for a 36-hole low flange hub (think classic Record low-flange) with very little metal between adjacent spoke holes. You could break a chunk of flange off along the spoke holes, like separating stamps. The consequences could be ugly.

That said, modern hubs are not as low-flange and have fewer spoke holes. Both trends result in more metal between the holes. It also helps immensely that it is the NDS, with much lower tension anyway. So unless it is a low flange 36-hole hub, make sure it is solidly and uniformly tensioned and just ride it. Your wheel is in some pretty well-respected company as far as that configuration goes. Unless you find it ugly or otherwise irksome, in which case go ahead and rebuild it. You will only need half a wheel worth of spokes.

oldschoolbike
oldschoolbike is offline