Hoods and drops!
I have the tops of my bars set about an inch below the top of the saddle. The end of the drops point toward the rear caliper brake area. The base of the hoods are slanted upward.
So: sitting on the bike in a doorway, I can "shake out" my arm to get a neutral hand angle, reach to the hoods, and hold the hoods without bending my wrist. I moved the hood position while in the doorway to get to this setup.
The biggest help is that the drops are high enough that they are another comfortable hand position. Many riders have the "pro" look, with bars set low, and rarely use the drops.
Switching back and forth between hoods and drops is really helpful to me. And the wide whole palm contact in the drops is way better on bumpy roads for hand comfort and bike control, too.
When using the drops, it's more aero, of course. and it stretches out my back a bit, which is helpful. (looks "expert" too...)
(I don't have hand numbness, just old person finger joints soreness, and likely less palm padding under the skin.)
Back in the day, when I tended to lock my elbows too much, I'd get sore shoulder joints, not just sore hands.
Saddle position:
I like to have the rear portion of the saddle (where my weight is) just about level. That reduces any sliding forward for me. The nose is slightly up, but that's okay for me, maybe not for everyone.
fore-aft balance
This fitter video was very useful to me. (ignore the considerably low bars here, mine are way higher.)
How to set saddle fore aft position, starting at 3:58
Basically, the test is moderate pedaling on a trainer: can the rider slowly lift hands off the bars without sliding forward?