Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,167
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4239 Post(s)
I would add a mm or two (on a front wheel "perfect" spoke length is generally a tad less important then the rear wheel, a mm or two short should be fine). I agree with the need to check the rim (especially if an impact broke a spoke) before going to the trouble of replacing the spoke. IMO the ideal process would have the remaining spokes untensioned enough so their tensions are not prodding the rim this or that way (which is what we do when truing a wheel). Then spin the wheel and watch the rim's condition. With no spoke tensions the rim's now new condition will be easy to discern. If the rim has a spot that is still "whopped" (technical term from the bike shop) and this area is less then about 4-6 spokes long, the rim will prove hard to true and the resulting spoke tensions to prod this area back flat and round will result in rather uneven tensions and future problems will be more likely.
The quick method is to just install the new spoke and tension it up to the same pluck tone as the others and fine true from there. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart