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Old 04-18-24, 10:26 PM
  #11  
LV2TNDM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern CA
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Bikes: Cannondale tandems: '92 Road, '97 Mtn. Mongoose 10.9 Ti, Kelly Deluxe, Tommaso Chorus, Cdale MT2000, Schwinn Deluxe Cruiser, Torker Unicycle, among others.

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Originally Posted by pdlamb
Not sure you need a new rim. Lay your ruler across the brake surface of the rim -- if there's a gap where the brakes have worn the rim surface down, yep, you need a new rim. Otherwise, just swap the spokes -- either all at once, or one at a time, your choice. Though it's more trouble up front, for the aggravation factor, all at once might be better.

If you do need to replace the rim, it's probably worth taking it to a shop to order a new rim and matching spokes. With a good mail-order source, they can help you figure out what you'll need, but get out your calipers to measure the hub.

Concur on the 14/15/14 double-butted recommendation. It's a little more than straight gauge 14 spokes, but it's easier to build a durable wheel with the double butted, and they're 1/3 the price of triple-butted.
The reason I recommended a new rim was because of its age. That plus the straight gauge spokes tells me that rim has seen a LOT of tension cycles in its life. In other words, I wonder how much fatigue life is left in an old Araya rim? I'm still running Araya rims this old, but I also know the history and builder of the wheels (me), so I can feel confident they haven't been going through a zero (or near) tension rotational fatigue cycle in their lifetimes. I also know how much braking material is left on the rim flanges. This is unknown for the OP.

If it was me, I'd rebuild the rim if it showed no visible signs of damage or wear. But for someone to source new spokes - especially if butted - and then pay a professional to build the wheel, I think it's best to go with a new rim. That eliminates one unknown variable. Plus, many professional builders and/or shops won't rebuild around a used rim. But I could be wrong.
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