(above) It would be good to show the drive side. The NDS is not showing external bearings typical of HT2 style, so I doubt different on the DS. The bolts look to be for the crank to be "self-extracting" rather than a crank tool. I think you just loosen those bolts, the head pushes on the cap, and the arms come off. Then BB is either cartridge or cone and cup, conventional disassembly applies. EDIT: Oh, I think I see the problem... is that an allen bolt in the center, or is it just a round hole? Ah, you said it is round but looks stripped. Let me think a minute...
OK, the big hex cap that says "DO NOT REMOVE", remove it with the appropriate size allen wrench. Non-destructive of crank: If you have a dremel tool with a small cutoff disc, cut slots into the bolt head, try to use large screwdriver to loosen bolt. Destructive of crank: If you can't make that slot in the head with mini cutoff disc, use a larger one to cut groove in bolt head, but also cuts into crank. Darn, the crank aluminum will clog the disc. Thinking more...
OK, since you said destructive is OK, use thin cutoff wheel on 4" die grinder to cut through the BB spindle between the crank and BB cup, looks like there is sufficient space without external bearings. Don't worry about a bit of scratching/grinding on face of BB ends, you're going to replace, but DO make sure you do NOT grind the end of the BB shell. As long as the end/cup protrudes on both sides, it should protect the BB shell ends. Do non-drive side first, then see if you can access to do same on drive side, if not, you may need to cut a couple arms of the spider with a hacksaw (after removing chainring(s)), then cut through BB spindle on drive side, that will give access on both sides to remove BB cartridge or end cups.
Other option is using a cutting torch or plasma cutter to cut BB spindle off on both sides, and will make quick work of cutting of the DS spider for access on that side.
Replace parts.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 04-20-24 at 02:40 AM.