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Old 09-06-19, 09:04 AM
  #34  
Unca_Sam
The dropped
 
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144

Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)

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Originally Posted by Chris0516
I had no trouble seeing the rumble strips. The rest of the asphalt, on the shoulder. Made it impossible to ride on the shoulder.


Agreed, It wasn't a direct hit. But, While not intentional, it definitely wasn't a grazing. Because, The SUV's front bumper. Made direct contact with the back wheel. The SUV started to drift to the right. But the driver not stopping, after the collision. Is heinous by itself.



I am glad you survived. I wish him a speedy recovery.

In just a few weeks, I am moving from an urban setting, to a semi-rural setting. Where the main traffic artery is just like this:

1. 55mph

2. No traffic lights or stop signs

3. Poor conditions on the shoulder




Hit-n-Run, is certainly applicable here.



To say the least.


I unfortunately am moving to an area. Where the 'main artery', is a road just like this. I would have to stay on it for 1.4mi., before I could get off of it. So I am still wondering what I will do.

When I originally got my road bike in 2003. It came with 700x23. I eventually went to 700x25. I don't think that will be much help with rumble strips. Even if I have the tire pressure. At the top of the PSI rating.
What are the sightlines on this 1.4 mi stretch? I wonder the same thing for potential tours outside of the Ohio to Erie trail: How will I mitigate a rear end collision with overtaking traffic?

I advocate for taking the lane, precisely because that's where an alert driver will be looking for traffic. If the road sees heavy traffic when you ride, that can be in your benefit because a driver will be expecting to stop, or you'll potentially gain a 2 ton guardian on your six while everyone creeps along. A bright rear light helps, maybe two, one flashing (something novel for the driver) and something solid to help gauge distance if light or visibility is poor. However, if there are tighter curves with vegetation that blocks the sightlines, it might be too much of a risk. I want the driver to have as much time to react as possible so I only have to deal with impaired or reckless drivers. If you know your route, you can plan on where to be to either maximize visibility (say, drift toward the center on a tight curve to be in a sightline earlier rather than later in the curve) or well out of the way (shoulder inside the curve).

One of the (poorer planned but necessary) bike routes I regularly use has a chicane followed by a long gentle downhill curve. The city planned this because it's a posted 10mph curve coming from a 25 mph zone transitioning to a 35 mph zone after. They put a bike lane on the shoulder of the curve, but then they're also working on the overpass and have that choked with gravel and debris. The chicane makes me nervous because cars regularly move through it at 25 mph (I'm one of them), so positioning is important there to give traffic time to react. Unfortunately, as infrequently as I use it, I've still had an impatient and reckless driver overtake me down the hill with oncoming traffic, so he could get to the T and stop at the bottom.
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