Originally Posted by
shawnin van
yes.. that was the first thing i did.. but it did not create more bite. then i sanded the pads.. did not help.. that was when i started with new pads... but it just lead to a long stop and not the bite i like.. then tried lots of bedding... long slow pulls... did not help... then sanded the rotor lightly..then tries adjusting the pads and caliper. still did not work..
one question is: is it very important that the pads sit evenly spaced on the rotor? or is ot ok that the rotor sits to one side of the pads? say the stationary inside pad??
remember they are mechanical disk brakes - only one piston moves and one is stationary... am i missing something>**********
As someone else posted earlier, and I'll be more emphatic about it, you absolutely cannot use the barrel adjusters to tighten the brakes. It pulls the actuation arm forward and past where it can make power. You may get the pads against the rotor but you will end up with less and less power the more you turn the barrel adjuster. The ONLY way you can tighten those brakes is by adjusting the stationary piston. Usually you'll have to adjust the position of the caliper too, it needs to be very close to the stationary pad, with a bigger gap to the moveable pad. The chances of the pads being contaminated w/ oil are slim UNLESS you use spray chain lube which is a huge no-no w/ disc brakes. The arm must be in the fully relaxed position. Undo the cable and let it go all the way back. Attach the cable and adjust. I will turn the stationary piston in nearly til the pad touches the rotor, then pull the lever til the pad that moves touches...then tighten the caliper bolts. You'll then back off the stationary piston a bit and you should be done.