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Old 06-30-20, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by MLux View Post
Thanks @headwind15! Very insightful that you are comfortable on a 42cm. Curious what make/model you ride? Also, when you say different rises (referring to the stem) is that the same thing as what I'm calling the stem angle? Or does it have to do with a stem riser?

I've heard of BBS certainly and that's why I was originally comfortable going for the 46cm instead of the 50cm. I tend to err on the side of "smaller is better" as well, but I wasn't sure if a touring bike geometry changed that. (Ridden different road bikes for a handful of years but this is my first touring bike.)

The Surly LHT seems to have a long top tube relative to frame size. Which seems the exact opposite of what I need based on my longer inseam compared to my height. The reach on the 50cm LHT is only 3mm longer than on the 46cm. However, the stack is 30mm taller! So I wonder if that would be a much better fit?

I hear what you're saying. Main consensus I've gotten is to start by switching back to the stock 70mm stem and go from there. Basically, play around with that stem height/angle and this bike should fit me? One more thing I should mention in this realm is that the saddle is pushed backwards on the seat tube as much as possible and I still feel like I want it to go a little more. Not based on reach but more based on my sit bones/knee positioning. Maybe a longer stem/reach would help this as well.

Seat fore and aft position should not be used to adjust reach; it should be used to adjust knee position to the pedal.
Your knee position looks OK in the photos, but if you are unsure try the method below:

Put your bike on a trainer or position it close to a wall or table, which will you to hold it vertical when sitting on the seat. With someone helping you position your seat height so your knee forms an angle of approximately 170 degrees. Sitting on your bike pedal backward a few revolutions, stop pedaling, and position your crank arms at the 6/9 o'clock position. Using a plumb bob, any small item on the end of a string, drop a line from the point just below your forward knee to your foot. The tip of the plumb bob should be over the center of the pedal's spindle. This is a good start for seat positioning. Check your reach after making those adjustments, and it should give you a good idea about where your reach would be.

I also believe that the steerer tube was cut to fit a shorter person than you. Forty mm is not much space. The nice thing about new LHTs is the forks' steerer tubes come uncut. This allows a lot of flexibility for bar height adjustment. Trying an adjustable stem and steerer extender is expensive. Adjustable stems are about $45 and the steerer extenders are $35. A new LHT fork costs $80, which is what you would probably want after trying the extender.

My wife took a look at your photos in the MBF, and had some thoughts. She is knowledgeable about bike fitting. Do your hips rock at all when you pedal? If they do, she suggested lowering your seat about 1/4" at a time until the hips are stable when pedalling. She also thought raising the stem is the best way to meet your needs. It will also shorten your reach a little. She thought a larger frame and short stem might work. Can you test ride a 50 mm LHT?

Looking at your pictures, I'd estimate the setback of your seatpost is about 15 mm. A 25 or 30 mm setback might help. It may also mess up your pedal/knee position.

My understanding is you wanted to raise the bars to be level with the saddle for a more upright riding position. Is that correct?

Last edited by Doug64; 06-30-20 at 10:12 PM.
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