View Single Post
Old 11-17-21, 03:05 PM
  #24  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,483

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7649 Post(s)
Liked 3,469 Times in 1,832 Posts
Originally Posted by mstateglfr
Based on your long running thread in this forum about gearing I would think you would have what you want dialed in by now.
Originally Posted by Moisture
im switching to a compact. My new area north of the city in rural southern Ontario is literally all steep, relatively long hills. I like 39t, its a good versatile gear that serves you well under a wide variety of grades and conditions, but it won't cut it for serious hill climbing.

This frame uses carbon fibre for the downtube and chainstays. The rest is alloy. It works brilliant..
​​​​​​​You ought to hash that out with moisture, who told us all:
Originally Posted by Moisture
34/32 is a good useful gear and should get you up most hills.

i have 39/53 and 12-25 on my road bike. I find that anything higher than 53/13 isn't necessary for my needs as I'm already going about 55km/h.

39/25 actually isn't as bad as it sounds; i can climb some fairly decent hills with this gear and don't mind walking the rest of the way up if it is just too steep/long.

my 12-25 cassette is in good shape - would it be a good idea (for my needs at least) to change to a 34/50? I've used 34 before; its useful for climbs, but I hate spinning out in 34t and then needing to face too big of a jump at 50t when riding on flat pavement. Im thinking 36/50 should solve this? I can order a 36/52 from my supplier.

If I'm using a 52t, I'd likely end up using a 13 or even 14t final gear cassette.
I guess that Moisture dude doesn't know his stuff that well.

By the way .... might I point out hat it is useless to ask people about changing the chain rings if you don't mention the cluster? Usually it is a lot cheaper to change a cluster than to change chain rings .... and nowadays you can get everything from 11-23 to 11-34. No idea what is on the new bike .... unless you are the same Moisture bragging about riding and walking up all those hills ....

Originally Posted by mstateglfr
As mentioned though- what does it matter how I would set up that bike? You and I have different strengths, capabilities, goals, etc.
Originally Posted by Moisture
I'm always open to opinions if it is backed by logical reasoning.
Um .... yeah except this is not a matter of opinion. so much.

If, on a specific bike, I would run one inch of spacers and a 100-mm stem at plus seven ... ; that is because that would FIT me, and have enough decades on bikes to know what fits. It is not "opinion," it is "This way hurts and that way doesn't."

If you have a specific stem at a specific angle with a specific number of spacers .... no one's "opinion" about whether that is right means anything. All that matters is how it Actually fits you. As was mentioned, without at least seeing you on the bike, it is impossible to have a relevant, informed "opinion" about bike fit with specific parts.

You cannot endear yourself to this community by asking opinions on subjects which are not subject to rational resolution by opinion, any more than you can make a lace here by giving advice you don't understand or making claims you disavow the next day (well, not a place you would want, anyway ... )

I learned how to set up a cockpit by trial and error. I still fine-tune all the time as my fitness levels change, as I age, and as I shift from bike to bike I have to spend a little time wondering if it is the cockpit set-up of r me that needs to adapt ..... but it isn't hard to figure out because I have been doing it for so long.

Not saying I could set up a bike for anyone else (though I know I could in some cases) but when it comes to setting up a bike for myself, where I get immediate feedback ...

Same with gearing. I could not care less what works for someone else. Gearing isn't a game, it is a way to improve or at least affect the quality of a ride. You want to bust your knees on hills, and end up walking? Cool, if that is what you want. Someone else wants to spin at 140 rpm? Cool for that person. I want to get up the climb without having a heart attack or having my lungs stop working ... so I choose gearing which facilitates that. If I rode taller hills, I would need lower gearing. if I never rode hills, I could ride SS. If I can get into better shape, I can go faster up the same hills and seek out longer and/or steeper hills with the same gearing.

I sincerely have no interest at all in suing what someone else uses. I have no interest in using what someone else recommends. No one gets the immediate feedback my body gives me.

You can get the same experience ... by getting experience. Ride your new bike ... . it looks like a good one. Change whatever you want ..... it is your money, but also your bike and your ride. Do what you like.

learn what works for you, then .....

Do What Works For You.

​​​​​​​I could ramble on with this nonsense all day but I need to go for a bike ride.
Maelochs is offline