Thread: My E+ review
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Old 03-29-21, 06:26 AM
  #663  
Firedog91902
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: San Diego
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Bikes: Univega Superstrada, Serrota, Santana tandem, E plus

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Powell, nice diagram. Your diagram is correct for early Makita's and clones. It doesn't show that the load (E+'s charge board, another controller, or a even drill) is connected directly to the cell stack; no gates, not even a fuse on most. That is the case on all older Makita's and all clones I've seen. No, I'm not going to open a battery and take a picture to prove it.

Saying the 4volt, sub milliamp tap affects an E+'s electronics is like saying Amazon's data centers can sense or be messed up by some one plugging Christmas lights into the national grid. As long as the voltage is there, it doesn't care and can't sense or know what else is connected. Please explain how the 2 batteries (36v) using your diagram can possibly screw up an E+'s charge board.

BTW, what happen to "open the pack and FOR SURE there are wires connected to each cell individually"? Have you ever acknowledged a error?

Just for everyone else. Makita and clone battery's electronics do monitor the total voltage during discharge (other functions when on the charger). If it goes below a certain voltage it bricks the battery and won't let it charge again. For safety, can't charge; can't use.. Early Makitas and many current clones use the diagram Powel found with the single cell, 4v tap, to power that battery board. It's a simple way to get the lower voltage needed. Even though the 4v current draw is tiny, some users didn't use their battery for years and eventually the cells supplying the 4v die. Then you got a mess with the other, still charged cells, forcing electrons thru the already depleted cells during the next use. Later, Makita's and most newer clone's reduce 18V to 4V with a circuit, no tap, and eliminated that problem.

Last edited by Firedog91902; 04-01-21 at 01:11 PM.
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