Thanks! Clearly, there are too many variables for me to sort out without an in-person visit. Because if I just went by what's felt right in the past, I'd be trying to fuse the back half of my old Omnium track bike (felt PERFECT in terms of my hips and legs, but I literally never turned the thing and only every rode in one direction) to the front of an old 80s beater Peugeot hybrid (I think it was an '83 Saint somethingorother from Canada) that had a top tube so long you could take your hands off the bars and eat a sandwich.
Originally Posted by
Andrew R Stewart
I suspect some of the "endo feeling" comes from what is likely a long stem too, not just a small seat set back amount. Relaxing the head angle (and rake to end up with some trail you like...) is not the first way I would address this. A longer top tube will both get that longer front center as well as open up steering geometry options (angle, rake/trail). Running short crank arms means that a lower BB height (or greater BB drop) could be considered, this would lower the CG a bit.
Since I make my own frames I have far less cost in ending up with a custom geometry/fit than most do. I generally don't suggest a custom frame for most riders but as you have been told and seem to be finding out there are some riders whose body dimensions don't work well with the middle of the bell curve of fit that pretty much all "bike brands" are economically driven to offer. I think you are one of these too.
As example my BB to seat top is 67ish cm (170 cranks) with a 45ish mm seat set back. But my top tubes are 55/55.5 cm long and the stems are 90/100mm long. What is called an over square design. The 52/53.5 long top tubes often found on 48/52 cm sized bikes are just too short for my tastes, I like a bike that isn't truck like in the steering so I avoid sub 72* head angles for all but my touring bike. The long top tube helps reduce the toe clip overlap but maintain nice steering. Andy