Old 07-19-21, 10:02 AM
  #4  
79pmooney
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 12,906

Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder

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I don't consider weight on my hands bad. (Tall, lean, skinny and under-powered. A really bad upwind combination.) But ... I have to play with the rotation of the handlebars and location of the brake levers to get my wrist angle just right or I pay the price, both while riding and after. For me, that means rotating my wrist down so my thumb is forward and my pinky back. My handlebars are rotated down considerably more than yours and my levers are lower with the tops of the hoods being more horizontal than yours.

You might want to do what I do when I set bikes up. Go for your first guess at bar and lever positions. Lay a yardstick under the flats of the handlebar drops and place a piece of tape on the seatstay where it hits. Go for a ride with the wrenches to adjust the handlebar rotation. (I do this with no handlebar tape, just enough electrical tape to secure the brake/derailleur cable housings.) Stop and play with the rotation (and brake hood location if you removed the tape) until your hands are happy. I then use adhesive cloth tape which is easy to unwrap to move the levers and re-wrap. Get everything just right then I can splurge and put on the good stuff.

Edit: I always wear gloves. A toasted pair after a crash is a pair that has served me well. More comfortable, less chafe also. I second going to a shop. The correlation between price and quality is loose at best. Some of they most comfortable and durable gloves I've owned have been the very cheap Forte brand ones.

Last edited by 79pmooney; 07-19-21 at 10:08 AM.
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