Originally Posted by
bikebikebike
Most lights are hard to adjust after setting out, and this is a problem.
How does the slow pulse that Light&Motion lights use work for you?
There is a slow pulse on the Cygolite tail lights, too, I'll have to use that more
I often ride a recumbent trike, and they need all they can get, I use a highviz hard hat cover on my helmet.
When out after dark , joggers on the MUP and streets without lights are almost invisible as are the 50% of bikers who ride without lights or reflectors.
- when i was cycling home from work, i would turn on my head light until I got to the local MUP. Turn it on solid, not strobing. Then turn it off on the MUP, until I was almost off of the MUP. I do not strobe a front light that's more than 200 lumen. it's just not....... something I agree people should do.
- A lot of the time I'll run a low lumen tail light blinking. I have no complaints with a 50 or 75 lumen red light flashing or pulsing. If a person is only on a MUP, then I see no reason to run any lights. If you're on a MUP with lots of road crossing that use traffic lights, sure, yes, OK, a solid DRL is not a bad idea. No problem No reason to strobe the thing.
- Small red tail lamps are small - therefore small batteries. A person can double run time by blinking the light. I understand that OK. Got it. I do it. They are also 50 ~ 75 lumens! Not a 250 or 400 lumen strobing light. To me it's a huge difference.
If you're out after dark why in the world would you strobe a bright front light? Out after dark means you lights are no longer DAYTIME running lights. They are ...... lights. Did I miss something as I listen to a podcast and type this? (multi-tasking: doing several things at once poorly......)
-- some cycling current events:
https://bikepacking.com/news/war-on-...reetridersnyc/