I think I'll settle for frame- and/or handlebar-bags. The Baryak adapters suggested by @
GadgetGirlIL ship from the USA and that is pretty much a no-go for me. I could try the fit kit by OMM, but that would mean buying the panniers and the rack too, and also having a heavier and bulkier bike even when I don't need it (which is most of the time). Yes, I know this contradicts my initial question, but I'm still making up my mind about this whole thing. Maybe using panniers that don't need a rack could be a compromise.
The frame does have lower rack mounts on the rear fork, but not the higher ones, so I had to buy a seat clamp with mounts.
I'm not sure how much weight the bike and the wheels can take, but for now neither of them have suffered much. It might also help that I weigh 70 kg.