79pmooney

This sounds like "I've got a 10mm nut and nothing else. I want to go 126 to 130 on the frame and 120 to 130 on the hub and not spend a cent. How do I do it?"

So now, the left dropout is set at 120. The right at 130. (Yes, odd!) If I were you, I'd bring both to 63mm off center; in other words, a proper 126. Get 3mm of spacers for each side of the hub and have a simple 126 symmetrical fix-free and do it with as little bending as possible. (Yes, I prefer 120s for fix/single speed but I also try to do as few bends as possible to lightweight frames. You're in Portland. Finding a qualified framebuilder/mechanic to do the bending is easy.)

I currently run regular 120s on two of my fix gears and 126 on my Mooney which I stretched from 120 to 126 3 decades ago. Fix-fix flipables on all but my 120 commuter. (The Mooney carries a little dish but that's because I run an unusual drivetrain setup.)

Edit: I sometimes carry spare hub huts because I flip the wheel so often. (I've done mountain rides with 10 flips.) My hubs are Miches which have served me well except they skipped the machining touch of the groove in the axle and a lockwasher with the nib. So the cone and lockwasher move over time and lots of wheel flips. Sometimes the locknut unscrews. Next hub flip, I crush that loose locknut and it breaks. Easy makeshift on-the-road repair? Replace both the nut and washer with a hub nut. Not perfect. Takes a little forcing of the dropouts. Chainline is a little off. But it finishes any ride just fine. And looks a lot like your current setup!