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Old 07-08-21, 05:54 AM
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Stadjer
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Groningen
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Bikes: Gazelle rod brakes, Batavus compact, Peugeot hybrid

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Originally Posted by jamesdak
LOL, why? Front's simple to remove to fix and the rear only seems complicated.

Of course that said, this is just the utility bike for me these days. Never more than around 3 miles from the house. So I'd probably just walk it back.

I do keep saying I need to put some sealant in the tires of both this one and the Guv'nor but haven't done it. Heck I see maybe one flat every 4-5 thousand miles or riding.

Been carrying AAA since my Miata days with not spare but last time I checked Utah AAA is of no help with a bike.
It's not complicated to patch the rear. Just take the tube out and not the wheel, and take a bit of care it doesn't get stuck on sharp edges when you pull it around to get to the leak. Changing the rear tube or tyre is a bit more work. I don't know these new chaincases, but I'm sure it 's improved on the ones I have to deal with on my vintage bikes. We have chainstasy spreaders here to avoid all that and pull new tyres and tube between the axle and the frame, but that damages aluminium frames. The chaincases were a bit of a pain but mainly because people tried to get them on again neatly after pulling them off indifferently, the trick is to get them off very neatly so nothing gets folded or bent, also not when it's left hanging from the cranck when the wheel is pulled out or put back in. The first time it might be a good idea to be in a patient mood and think twice about every move though. Count the naked threads on both chain tensioners before unscrewing and you know the starting point for final adjustment when the wheel is back in.
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