Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,205
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
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One could perhaps tack-weld a spot of metal under the hanger to provide the "Campagnolo" stop position, really low and brief heat input this way.
If trying for more throw from the derailer, start by taking 1mm out of the drive-side axle spacing, you'll still have chain clearance!
I sometimes find a 1mm-thinner Shimano locknut for the drive side and add a 1mm washer to the non-driveside of the axle, which makes for a stronger wheel and also better chainline while reducing the chosen derailer's throw requirement.
On variants of the Huret and Schwinn Allvits for example, I have found different ways of de-restricting the outward travel, taking advantage of my having shifted an upgraded-to-6s freewheel closer to the dropout and allowing use of modern chain with a standard 6s freewheel. Point being that every derailer and bike might have a different sort of modification needed to achieve the needed range of derailer cage travel that is positioned to match the particular freewheel or cassette's position within the frame's spacing.