Tourist in MSN

I did not realize that there were dynohubs in the system to generate power. The photo of a womens frame version looks like a dynohub in the rear hub. That does not look like a drum brake, as drum brakes would have a torque arm to the chainstay and I do not see a torque arm in the photo. It also looks like rim brake behind the bottom bracket.

Welcome to the world of rod brakes. Be careful you do not have a brake lever pulled and go backwards, sometimes a brake pad will slide out of the holder if you do that. You can accidently do that if you stop on a steep uphill. I have no clue how easy or hard it would be to find replacement brake pads.

If that is a dynohub and battery system, the battery case would be to hold a battery that can operate it when stopped and also to prevent the bulbs from burning out when you go down a hill and run the alternator faster than the bulb was designed for.

Maybe you could use three NiMH rechargeable AA batteries in series in the battery case using AA to D size battery adapters. Then when the dynohub charges up the system, the batteries can accept a charge.

And then use regular bulbs. Assuming that there are bulbs still in the lights, write down any specifications on those bulbs if you take them out. If you try LEDs instead of bulbs, if a bulb does not work, the polarity might be reversed, you could switch the wires to the bulb and see if that fixes it or not. Plain bulbs work with either polarity but some flashlight LED bulbs only work one way.

I assume that the frame is not grounded here, but that is a possibility and if so, that could complicate things if polarity needs to be reversed for an LED bulb.

Interesting project.

If you have not figured it out yet, almost all the nuts and bolts will use Whitworth wrench sizes, not metric and not SAE. So, an adjustable wrench is likely your best bet. When I sold my vintage British motorcycles, I threw in my two Whitworth wrenches in the deal, no longer have them.