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Old 11-06-20, 09:26 AM
  #27  
Skulking
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Originally Posted by margoC
I asked the shop about the one time pin. These are some older bikes that have older chains and weren't ridden a lot before they sat in the garage. The chain on the specialized was fine, just a little gunk. I don't know what chains they are, I looked but couldn't tell.

The old mountain bike had too much rust on the chain for me to be comfortable with after I cleaned it. It was time for a new one.

The plier I got from Amazon, it was just called "bike link pliers" and came with an assortment of links.

My suspension is when I opened everything up all the links where in nearby piles and got mixed up. No problem, I should probably use a fresh one right?

It was hard keeping the chain straight so the links would line up. The pliers didn't want to spread, only go in maybe my technique? I didn't think of using the brake and spread the chain like that. I thought the pins should have been further through the side plates they looked flush.

I can go through all my gears just fine. My specialized has a 7 cog cassette, I think the mongoose has 7 as well. The spare links had 8, 9, and 10 on them but one group had no number, just a triangle.

I guess I am missing the part were these things are an improvement. Back when I was a serious rider I simply used a chain tool (and so did the shop I hung out at) and never had a single problem. Not one.

I'm not a roadie anymore but have finally accepted there are other ways to enjoy cycling. I have too many injuries to even consider taking riding a road bike but I've recently dusted off my non-road bikes and now that I've finally gotten used to riding in a position that at first wasn't natural for me I've been riding regularly. I doubt I will ever be able to ride 20 miles at a shot but my 5-10 miles have had an amazing therapeutic effect on my knees and the rest of my body.

I have no plans on riding anything other than mostly smooth surfaces, and the area I live in has a lot of good fun riding sections.

I want to convert the old mongoose hilltopper into something else. I got some great inspiration in that thread.

My point in that long diatribe is that I don't need a lot of performance components to make it work for me. Maybe I can avoid master links, at least for the time being. Maybe all link wrenches aren't the same and mine is crappy. Maybe I need to use a wire to keep the chain in place while I fiddle with it. I have horrible arthritic hands which doesn't make any of this easier.

The rear wheel on my specialized was not properly tensioned and was making tinking noises as I road, plus it was out of true pretty bad. I managed to fix it right up without even a trueing stand, I knew I could improve it but it's a perfectly true wheel now!

So I can true a wheel, fix a flat, and adjust the brakes. We'll see how far that gets me. My original plan was to drop them both off for tune ups but they are all behind a few weeks. I'm back to wrenching on my own bike.

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions. I will return to my master link battle eventually. I'm going to look into some higher quality links, the ones that came with my plyers might not be the best.
Looking around on Amazon, all of the sets of "universal master links" seem to come with 3 sizes of links, S10 for 10 speed chain, S9 for 9 speed chain, and a triangle for 6/7/8 speed. If that is what yours came with, you want to use the one labeled for 6/7/8 speed which appears to be the triangle though I can't be sure since you say you have 4 different sizes in your pack. The chain width becomes narrower as the number of speeds increases beyond 8, so those master links won't extend far enough out through the inner plate to engage.
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