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Old 09-23-21, 02:44 PM
  #25  
francophile 
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Originally Posted by tiger1964
Having had so many frames p-coated just last year, my guess I'll need to know about this in 2041... and won't remember what to use to remove the coating.
I wouldn't hold PC in such a high light. Yes, it's hard. Yes, it's durable. But it's merely a coating over the metal, and it doesn't bond with the metal as fiercely as top-coated self-etching paint, so if (a) not finished thickly enough, and/or (b) not topcoated and/or (c) not finished properly at the edges like the BB shell face, seat tube edges, head tube openings, and even the tubing vent holes, OR you chip at one of those locations while installing things, water can easily get underneath the coat and rot things from the inside out without you knowing until CRUNCH, your thing falls in half under you. It's not like paint, which will send up warning bubbles when compromised.

This isn't me hating on PC, it's just a sad reality of the product. I've seen it happen countless times in the offroad vehicle world with tubed vehicle frames, tubular roof racks, step bars, and even A-arms /control arms. We've seen it here on C&V forum at least once or twice since I've been here too ...

If you really care about your frame and it's been PC'ed, make sure you install framesaver in the tubes and, if you can, topcoat with a good 2K clearcoat (Disclaimer: Wear proper breathing apparatus w/2K paint, it's no joke).
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