Originally Posted by fourfa

Not sure if there’s a question here or if it’s more of a brag thread? Anyway Orto San Guilio is one of the most beautiful small towns I’ve seen in Italy, though hardly undiscovered. I happened to camp there and take a rainy zero day or two. Shortly before dinner time the tour bus people got on their buses and left the town quiet and timeless and a bit magical, so it was a lovely place to watch the evening change and wander the darkened streets. I’m sure the towns are similar throughout this region - ie a bit swarmed in the daylight hours - but unless you’re staying in town in expensive hotels or get lucky with a campground just outside the centro storico you might miss the magical quiet evenings and mornings. Upper Bergamo was similar. I’ll second a recommendation for Bormio and ride up and over Stelvio if you can, just for the accomplishment - but with such a short trip I’m not sure it’ll be worth the time. I spent 4-5 days in Bormio and just rode all the passes and Giro stages around there.