Originally Posted by
DiabloScott
It's a lot of practice.
1. Use glue instead of tape, and don't use too much (this is an experience thing).
2. Tape OR glue, leave a bare spot opposite the valve where it'll be easier to get started.
3. Thin tire iron helps a lot; both getting started and all the way around - steel works better than a Pedro's type.
I just ordered the Sunlite equivalent from Bike Berry. (I try to avoid Amazon and will happily spend a buck or two more to have my money go elsewhere.) I actually have one sweet steel spoon lever from a distant millennium somewhere. Thanks for this tip and the no-glue at the rim seam trick. (I heard that also back in that distant past but never did it.)
Now I need to get spokes, build wheels and get sweet tubbies on the Pro Miyata I just set up. (What a ride! My Mooney's main triangle exactly! The rest slightly more spread out than the Fuji Pro I raced and loved but now I've got the stem and reach I should have had back then. Circa 1990, so I'm told. The heyday of steel racing bikes and it shows every ride. And suckers me into riding harder! Yes, true race bikes are faster. But it's not anything you can measure!)
So I need to find those hen's teeth, 302mm butted whatever/1.5/whatever DT? Sapim? in silver. Spent many hours getting nowhere a few weeks ago. A local shop can cut me black Sapims. Did a wheel for me but black does zero for my tastes. (For silver hubs and greybrown GP4s and silver 330s.)