Originally Posted by
delbiker1
To me, it sounds like a cable issue, not the cassette. I wonder if the OP used the barrel adjuster at the RD, he mentions slackening the cable, but does not mention the adjuster. In addition, I am curious how old the cables and housing are, or if they were replaced, was it correctly done? Are the limit screws set correctly?
- The limit screws ought to be set correctly. The inside limit is set such that the chain doesn't pop off the big cog into the spokes, and the outside limit is set just enough so that the chain falls onto the 12T - no more, no less.
- I had thought about the cable and housing, but the reason I'm discounting that is that the HG800 shifted perfectly right up until the day I removed the old wheel and cassette, indicating that there shouldn't have been any issue with friction. At changeover, the bike had ~2900mi on it, and she has ~3270mi now.
- The Lynskey has barrel adjusters both at the derailleur, as well as on the head tube (yeah, they stick out like ears). On the stand, I played with the rear barrel adjuster exclusively; while riding, I tweak the head tube adjuster as needed. I didn't break out the Y tool and pliers - again, her cable tension was perfect for the old cassette, I wouldn't expect a new cassette to need something particularly different.
I've worked in two separate shops in high school and college, and built up my Cannondale last summer. That bike shifts perfectly with a Force derailleur, chain, and PG1170 cassette. The ramps on the Miche seem less aggressively profiled than I'm used to seeing on the Shimano and SRAM options, so I wonder if that might be the reason.