Originally Posted by
JohnDThompson
I braze a stainless steel washer to the face of the 1060 dropouts to improve things:
That was also handy for a race bike that might get a neutral-support wheel. You needed your dropouts to be the same thickness as Campy 1010 so the QR would close with the right tension, or your wheel change would take much longer.
My race toolbox used to have two pair of 1010 dropouts (front and rear) for setting the QRs on spare wheels.
Then nonferrous frames started having all sorts of different thicknesses of dropouts, and we lost that de facto standard thickness.
Don't even get me started on disk and through-axle on roadrace bikes, so dumb!