Originally Posted by
dukeofearl
Confused on whether this is right or left threaded. On a 1977 PX10LE, so thinking it's french threaded. But it won't budge. Going to return the 38mm wrench I bought, this is something like 37.5. Going to try the Sheldon method next but want to be sure I'm turning it the correct direction.
Normally I would just leave it and use as is, but already bought a french threaded sealed bb with longer spindle for a triple crank. Maybe I should forget it or look for a longer spindle.
The fixed cup has three circles in it. These indicate something but I haven't been able to find the info.
Originally Posted by
juvela
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a) something is clearly not right there. as things sit cup might work loose with use or it may not be properly aligned if for example it were cross threaded.
b) removal will permit examination and measurement
c) if threads have been damaged one solution would be to ream and tap to Italian
d) Stronglight did not offer spindles for 70mm shells so they made the walls of their Italian dimension bottom bracket cups one mm thicker than others
e) in order to preserve the OEM chainline you would want to place a 1.0mm spacer behind the Italian dimension fixed cup prior to mounting
Originally Posted by
dukeofearl
I'm starting to think it's better not to mess with this bb and leave the cup in place. It's likely english based on those circles, which means someone may have forced it in a french threaded bb.
So I either track down a longer spindle that would work for a triple crank or just keep it double. Maybe I'll just have to find another french frame to use this bottom bracket and triple crank on. And I thought I was done with french frames!
If that cup is flush, aligned ok on the inside you maybe ok to leave it. The 12 point socket can not work out if cup is seized and it rounds off the corners before it comes loose, very hard to secure it to not slip and "flattening" the open edge is a must IMO. Sheldon's method is long standing tradition but can damage the inside of the cup, especially if it slips at all.
Here's my method that has never failed, including a PX-10 awhile back that was the same as here, BSA DS cup forced in, got it out, restored the threads and put a correct Stronglight cup in FTW.
This setup often employs a 2 or 4ft cheater, again, it has never failed and like commented above it can crack it loose both ways, once it does you just make sure you're going the right way and carry on.
And yes the wrench is going the wrong way in the pic.
