Actually, your track frame might be longer than your road frame because your races are shorter and you can endure an uncomfortable, yet aero, position during the race or training effort.
Years of wisdom (and spent money) talking: If you are on a budget and don't want to throw good money after bad:
- Find a top racer that has the same body type as you and races the same events. Copy their position as a starting point. Take note of their angles (back, hip, legs, arms). This may be difficult. Scour the internet for photos and screenshot videos where they are square to the camera.
- Find a good fitter (or bike builder) and experiment with fits on a fit bike to get the position above. It will be uncomfortable at first. Deal with it, but do make allowance for mortal features like Master's bellies and inflexibility.
- Copy core angles from top frames (e.g. LOOK R96) for optimal handling.
- Print out the dimensions from the best fit and take it to a good builder.
- Have the builder make it as stiff as you want it.
- Have it built.
- Enjoy.
This is exactly what I did and my fit was perfect and the bike handled like a Porsche 911. I later bought a Felt TK FRD that had a 1cm shorter top tube just to be bling. Previous bikes included: 2 custom Tiemeyers, Dolan DF3, LOOK 496, Felt TK1.
Go to any track in the world and you are subject to find a Master, Elite, Pro, Junior, hell anybody...that will ride circles around you using a steel frame. TTown Saturday morning races has some of the fastest masters in the world. Some ride steel frames...that fit them perfectly
The frame is not what makes a racer fast. It's simply the foundation to which bits are attached (cranks, wheels, handlebars, you...)
Bike companies make a big deal about how fast frames are and why you should spend money to get theirs...but the reality is that your body is 90% of the aero picture. Your front wheel is like another 5%. Everything else (frame, rear wheel, cranks, pedals, bars, seatpost, etc...) make up that last 5%.
All of the frame wind tunnel data that companies tout are the frame in there by itself. "It's 10% faster than the previous frame!!". Yeah, but the frame doesn't ride around by itself. The total aerodynamic package is only 0.1% faster when you put a person on it kicking up air when his/her eggbeater legs and the front wheel his chopping air like karate "he-YAHs!!".
Get a frame that fits, first. Period.
Anecdote:
Dan Holt (Team Type 1, back to back US Elite Points Race Champ (lapping the field both years)) was local to DLV. At one time, he didn't have a track bike. Every Wednesday night, he'd borrow a loaner bike that's used for beginners (round-tubed steel Fuji Track, 32 spoke wheels, crap tires and everything). He'd then borrow a 13t cog then put on his pedals. He'd then proceed to wipe up the P/1/2 field for the night. One day, he forgot his pedals and used the old-school cage+nylon straps. Same result.
The frame materials aren't holding anyone back from performing, folks. Especially, not us
The key is to:
- Make sure it fits how you want to fit on it.
- Make sure that there aren't any functional issues (flexy, slipping dropouts, slipping seatpost, etc...)
- Ride it like you stole it.