when truing wheels you need to pay attention to radial runout on each spot of the rim (at each spoke). as i said in another thread... radial runout at each spoke.
adjusting radial runout is best done at roughly medium DS tension with NDS (non drive side) spokes having almost zero tension. you just need to add a tiny bit of tension on the NDS so that you have good enough lateral true when adjusting that very important radial true and also balancing it out with spoke tension variance.
you should not aim for absolute zero radial true if that means you don't have uniform tension on those DS spokes. that is because spokes stretch under tension.
very few wheelbuilders are skilled enough to do this balancing of tension variance with radial true without the use of any computing device. even if they have tons of experience they won't always reach the optimal build but will either be lucky and some of their work will be sloppy for the sake of expediency.
an example:
for 2mm spokes with 290mm length and +/-13kgf tension variance you will have +/-0.04mm spoke length.
having a truing stand with no dials to show the amount of radial true at each spoke means you need to work a lot to achieve almost zero radial true (less than that 0.04mm) and then you should take note of each spoke's tension to have some adjustments made after that radial runout was taken care of. if the tension variance is small enough then you are lucky with a rim that is almost perfect from the factory. having to work with a damaged rim... a cheap truing stand won't really help much.
a professional truing stand would have some dials to show radial runout on any part of the rim so that you would assess spoke tension one way or another and find the compromise. with practice you could do without any computing device that you could have worked with while you don't have experience in assessing tension variance with your ear alone and everything else. plucking the spokes will not give you accurate and complete information, especially if you haven't checked with numbers what your ear tells you. you could resort to a tension meter or a tone generator but you also need to have the elastic modulus concept applied while you work with numbers. if you don't do that then you will have sloppy work. sometimes you will have a lucky build, sometimes not.
my first time i worked on a wheel - repairing it - i resorted to zip ties and optics for assessing radial runout at each spoke (deviation from the mean distance). i had a zip tie move and another zip tie fixed at a small distance and i used a paper on the window to have a rough estimation of the radial runout at each spoke. what i did was moving my head/eye to find where the aligned zip ties were pointing on the paper i had fixed on that paper on the window. i measured the thickness of the tapes i put on the rim where the flat spot was to have the max radial runout and then did all the adjustments with tension values noted down. very tedious work. i won't ever afford a professional truing stand so i'll always go with such a process because i don't want wheels built/repaired by so called professional mechanics and i also want resilient wheels (not only very very low lateral and radial runout) so i don't need to ever spend time repairing them once i'm done all that work.
the thinner the spokes are the more important all this is. there are more things involved when wheel building; beside this radial adjustment what is very often neglected is the right lubricant and reaching zero residual torsional stress.
take notice that nipple/eyelets will have a bit of bedding in meaning you should have a second (final) stage at that radial adjustment (at about medium DS tension with NDS almost slack). that bedding in does not need to happen under large dynamic loads when riding the bike. if you stress relieve the wheel you take care of that too. also, the more residual torsional stress the more likelihood the spokes will spring back and will also unscrew a bit from the nipple once large dynamic loads happen. eliminate torsional stress before stress relieving which should be done in stages.