Originally Posted by
Germany_chris
There's a lot of debate on crank length on the internet that you might want to read, it really isn't just a math formula.
If you're willing to spend the money Zinn has all the long crank lengths you'll ever want his site would be my first and last stop.
Yes youre right. Ive done some research on the matter and concluded that proportion to your inseam is only a rough outline.
Zinn is exactly where I bought this crankset from.
In the future, id figure out a way to buy directly from the manufacturer Driveline. They have both a mountain (M210) and road (R210) crankset which can be ordered custom in practically any size you can think of.
https://www.driveline.com.tw/product/15/45
https://www.driveline.com.tw/product/14/48
My set also came with the outboard style bearings where the crank arms sit on a spindle that slides through the entire. Its a very smooth design.
Originally Posted by
HTupolev
The frame may or may not be stiffer, but this would result from the geometry and tubing profiles, not from the type of steel. Chromoly steel is not intrinsically any stiffer than hi-ten steel.
Steel frames actually sometimes get less stiff as you go to higher-end models, because often they'll be using similar outer diameters for the tubing, but thinner tubing walls.
I'd strongly disagree. Flex results in poorer feedback, which makes it harder to brake optimally.
People who need fine braking control always work to reduce flex from their braking systems.
Part of why mountain bikers use hydraulic disc brakes is that the hydraulic fluid is compressionless, resulting in extremely stiff actuation on the entire path from the lever body to the brake pad. When air bubbles get into the hydraulic lines, which adds flex to the system because air is compressible, they bleed their brake system to restore its stiffness.
A lot of effort goes into minimizing flex on cable-actuated rim brakes as well. For example, cheap brake cable housing tends to just use steel coil for its structure, which is a little springy; high-quality brake cable housing often incorporates longitudinal wires similar to those used on shift cable housing, to reduce flex in the system by making the housing compressionless.
Really? The tall guys I ride with don't seem to have any trouble using aggressive positions.
My norco used plain gauge tubing so I guess that would make up for the different. The tubing looks the same when compared visually however.
Theres only so much you can do to totally stop caliper flex. Most of that flex will be coming from the brake pads themselves. Stiff brake pads won't work well particularly in wet or muddy conditions.
Its a matter of compromise. Using my super stiff and super strong avid rim brakes with koolstop pads on the mountain bike works well, but I didn't have much feel through the levers when stopping fast. Jt could have something to do with the length and ergonomics of the lever as well.
I have some extra muscle as well as fat on my body. Once I'm in the drops, my knees are pretty much hitting my chest. I'm sure that a very slender person can get lower than the saddle up front regardless of their height.