Originally Posted by
CliffordK
That makes some sense to prevent wheel slippage. However, I have never had the NDS slip (10-speed bikes), so is there any reason to have the screw on the left other than symmetry?
I would suspect that you've also never done a maximal standing start on a road bike either. But, maybe you simply don't produce enough torque (which is not unusual).
Originally Posted by
Morelock
this is the most overthought thread on something simple in a long time
I love it
Just buy a couple of metric bolts the right size from your local lowes/home depot (in the drawers in the fastener section) there is some concern about thread pitch, but likely they'll be right on smaller size bolts. Buy some correct nuts for them.
Thread in the dropouts to correct length for clearance, thread the nuts on as your "stop" (or use loctite purple/blue, just something to keep it from turning in transport/etc)
Or just skip it... tighten down the wheel's nuts properly. Unless you are pulling big starts or using crappy locknuts you'll be fine.
Sometimes the plates of the track ends simply aren't the right material. Titanium seems to be optimal as it's soft enough to let the axle nut "bite" into it and hold. A lot of the higher end bikes use Ti. There were lots of bikes that were notorious for allowing wheels to slip, no matter how tight you wrenched on them. Serenity Bikes frames comes to mind. I've seen 150lb ladies slip wheels using those frames.
On the other end, Tiemeyer used Ti...and don't have any tensioners or allowance for such. And I never slipped a wheel using my Tiemeyer frames. And any big sprinter using a Tiemeyer probably didn't have any either. Ti is the key.